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I just got this banshee and the clutched like worked one time then came all lose then worked one time then came loose and it's not the cable cause I pushed that rod thing back and put it in gear to see if it'd still run and it's not what could be the problem? Please help

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I just got this banshee and the clutched like worked one time then came all lose then worked one time then came loose and it's not the cable cause I pushed that rod thing back and put it in gear to see if it'd still run and it's not what could be the problem? Please help

My god, are you still in a panic from this happening?
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Even though your posts make no sense at all, I believe that you are genuinely trying. So, here goes. Let's get some basics out there first.

 

Clutch engaged--- you're riding across the dunes in a gear and your fingers are not touching the clutch lever

Clutch disengaged---You're sitting in the parking lot waiting on your buddies. Trans is in 1st gear, clutch lever pulled against the grip, engine running, bike not moving

 

There are basically only 3 SYMPTOMS of clutch problems.

Clutch will not disengage-- You pull the clutch lever to the bar, stomp the shifter into gear and the bike lurches and the engine dies

Clutch will not engage---You pull the clutch lever, shift into 1st, let the clutch out and the bike just sits there

Clutch works normally, but slips when you're really getting on the throttle

 

Now that we have those terms explained, start diagnosing.

You should have about 1/2" of free play in the clutch lever on the bars. This is the distance that the lever pulls easily. The actual amount isn't critical as long as it's a close. 1/4" to 1" will still work. If you have 3" of free play, the clutch will not disengage completely.

 

Assuming you have some amount of free play, now go to the clutch actuator(lever on top of the case). Push the actuator towards the right side of the bike. It should push easy for a small amount. When it stops with just light pressure, the pointer on the arm should line up with the pointer on the top of the case. If it doesn't, then you have things wrong in the clutch and the clutch cover needs to come off. It could be that someone adjusted the pressure plate adjustment screw wrong, a worn out clutch, or other problems. All clutch problems can be fixed without splitting the cases EXCEPT a severely welded clutch ball that is stuck inside the trans shaft.

 

If the pointers line up properly, check your freeplay at the clutch lever on the bars. If it was fine before and now all of a sudden, you have way too much freeplay, the clutch cable stretched. Probably broke most of the strands, and the few remaining strands stretched.

 

Now, let us know what you find based on this information.

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This is simple.....your clutch fibers are stuck together. You can start the bike in neutral. ..but as soon as you put it in gear it stalls right?

 

Start bike in neutral

Rev motor up high

Kick into first and get going (clutch lever can't be feathered yet....this is a neutral drop into first.)

Get bike on pavement and at LOW SPEEDS get in and out of gas like you were trying to pop wheelies. (Hard throttle hit followed by hard backload.) You might need to try 2-3 gear if it won't free up in first. But keep youe speeds LOW.

After a few stabs of tge gas followed by a heavy deceleration backload, the clutch fibers should free up And your clutch lever action shoukd return.

 

NOTE: It can be common for fibers to stick a little the first time you let a clutch out if the bike has sat for a bit. A hard rev just prior to kicking it into 1st usually frees thigs up. Yours is a more extreme case most likely due to old tranny oil and/or outside storage.

 

Once clutch is freed up....change fluids and store bike indoors.

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