draggins10 Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 First time doing work like this so try not to be to harsh. Well anyway my banshee died on me this weekend. Stalled in second gear then took a long time to start again, and when it did finally start it sounded absolutley horrible. I decided to investigate and took off the head. This is what I found The gunked up side of the head matches the chewed up/ melted piston. Also I didnt completely drain all the coolant before taking the head off ( I forgot the 2 coolant bolts on each side under the exhaust). So I'm guessing some coolant went into the cylinder. Is that gonna be a problem? What should I do now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Guns Racing Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 You've gone this far. Done be affraid of the process this is not too difficult. Remove the engine and start removing other componets to inspect for failure and damage. U look like you have a bearing or risk clip failure. I dont see any classic signs of it being lean right off the bat. You need to get that coolant out of the crankcase before any bearings or your crank starts to rust bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draggins10 Posted July 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 (edited) How should I go about removing the coolant. Will it come out of the exhaust port if I flip the bike forward? Edited July 24, 2013 by draggins10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satts Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 No dont do that you will have oil come out too, drain throught bottom of crankcase ,full oil change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 pull the cylinders off and take them to a auto/bike machine shop or a bhq sponsor thats close to you. they will tell you what size pistons you need. maybe decide if you want a port job or just give it a rebuild. id split the cases too and get the crank trued and welded. then you can start off fresh with a good engine. prolly be into it for about $600 for a simple rebuild with forged pistons and trued/welded crank with gaskets n seals. you can repair the head or buy a cool head with domes for extra $ split it all, put bolts and parts some where safe, be fucking clean as you can when putting it together. get a clymers manual on the banshee. its all pretty simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 My bet is the rod big end shit a bearing. Pull the jugs and check. I'd like to see your parts list for a $600 build, don't think you could do it with a Wang crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 200$ piston kit with top end gaskets. 70$ gasket/seal kit 50-100$ true n weld. 150-200$ machine work including stock head provided the crank is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calderon Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 That happend to mine and it was the crank journal that went out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shakar Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 if you plan to keep your shee around awhile? do like dirty said split the cases and redo all seals/gaskets and weld crank if pos. if the crank isnt fixable '' f$$K IT'' grab atleast a 4mm crank. then have the top end ported to your riding style or theres allways somone on here trying to sell ported juggs w. slugs.do everything you can yourself , its a pretty simple motor an youll be a happy dude when its all said and done . goodluck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draggins10 Posted July 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 Thanks guys. I just ordered a clymers manual. I guess its time for me to learn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 My bad DDU, I didn't read close enough to see "simple rebuild" Yeah a top end isn't that bad, crank is what kills it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draggins10 Posted July 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 I began taking the engine out. Removed the exhaust and found metal particles in the header of the melted piston. I tried to get the rest of the engine off but could not get the rear motor mount off. I tried jacking up the engine so it was level and hitting the bolt with a pinch but the rear mount still would not budge. Any suggestions on how to get it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Soooo, are you saying, you got the nut off the rear motor mount bolt, but the bolt is stuck in the motor mount tube? If so, spray liquid wrench, pb blaster, wd40 or whatever in there by the threads, in the middle where the mount tube is splits, etc and try turning the bolt with an impact wrench or breaker bar. Try turning forward and backward til it breaks loose. Worst case, you may need to heat the end of the bolt with a torch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draggins10 Posted July 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Yea exactly, I got the nut off the bolt but the bolt is stuck in the mount. The bolt turns easy, I used an impact wrench but it still won't slide out. Ill try pb blaster when I get home. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 So, if the bolt turns easy, it seems like there's only 2 possibilities. The steel tubes are also turning, the motor mount is fucked, and the bolt is rusted into the tubes. Heat the tubes with a torch but don't get the cases too hot. Or, the bolt has been loose for a very long time and the frame ears have sawed a notch in the bolt, preventing it from sliding out. Jack up the motor, turn the bolt and tap it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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