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downside to nitrous?


jayhawkatv

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I built a 4 mil stock cyl drag bike this winter. Well now I am wanting more (go figure) Is there any reasons why most ppl don't run the bottle? It would be cheaper then buying another engine wouldn't it?

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1. I believe there is a lack of consistency running nitrous, especially on 2 strokes.

 

2. Many times, I see big  bikes go SLOWER on the bottle.

 

3. Its hard, if not impossible, to build a motor that's fast on the bottle, and off the bottle.

 

4. Easier to melt pistons if not tuned correctly or have solenoid failure(s).

 

 

I can't think of anything else. That being said, I have never ran nitrous and have no experience with it other than whippets/balloons a couple of times.

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I run nitrous on my 700 raptor and The most annoying thing is the bottle running out. You can refill a small bottle with a large bottle, thats what i do at the dunes. I just dune race but if you want it to be consistent youll have to get a bottle heater,fuel/nitrous pressure gauges and a purge solenoid to keep consistent pressures. Another annoying thing is on the bottle my raptor needs more paddle/longer swingarm off the bottle its a turd lol.

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You could put a small shot on that motor and pick up some hp safely. Let someone that runs it chime in before you give up on it. The smaller motors may be easier. I was just giving my experience of being a spectator with nitrous on bigger (800cc +) motors.

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We have a nitrous kit we tried a few times on asphalt. We had a well tuned 443cc cub on race gas. We were testing it out of town & everyone wanted to see what it was going to do. We laid down a series of baseline motor runs. Then we decided to use the nitrous, with only the 20hp setting. We lost ET on every pass using nitrous compared to the motor runs. Everyone was puzzled & thought we didn't spray or it wasn't working. I knew it was working because we picked up 2-3 mph over our baseline passes, but lost ET due to wheel spin.

 

That's the fallacy with nitrous, most think you become an instant star with it alone. Just like everything else, the whole combination need to be tuned to work together.

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theres only downsides to it if you dont like to wrench.... get a good nos or nx kit....2.5 lb bottle.....wire it all up right...get a holley blue fuel pump (theres also a some other pumps you can run but thats the easiest to get your hands on) ....run a return line to your tank to keep fuel pressure consistant...pille spread size depends on what fuel your running...set it up with 6lbs of fuel pressure..set the bottle pressure around 1000 psi.....start with something like a 20- 30 total shot...make sure you have a good battery so it doesnt let your pumps or solonoids not work well going down the track ..check to make sure all solonoids are working right (before you put the nozzles in the bike) if nitrous is coming out and fuel is coming out your good to go...if your not trying to spray the house down you can get a substantial gain and it wont be to hard on parts but its inevitable that you will over look something eventually and not have your bottle pressure right, not have your fuel pressure right, change pills and put them in backwards.....not richen it up for a cold night....and you will eat a piston or something.....its not as hard as some make it out to be, and harder than others make it out to be...just stay on top of things, and learn as you go....but once again if you dont want to risk hurting any parts....get a 4 mill cub and hope for the best

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just cause you beat alot doesnt mean the ones you beat are setup as good as your stock cylinder....i didnt mean you had to get a 4 mill cub i just picked a motor thats common, more reliable than most, and bigger than what you had now....basically i was saying if none of what i said about nitrous sounded good and you didnt wanna chance any part failures, then just get a bigger motor....theres always a chance for part failures, but as with everything, more so when you go adding power adders

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