turbowrenchhead Posted May 18, 2013 Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 A customer brought me a 01 stock banshee. Its been beat and it has several problems other then the no start. The customer tried replacing the stator with a Ricky Stator brand. Then he had spark on one side. He replaced the coil with a 06 used oem and said then he had spark on both caps. The first thing I did was a compression test. I got 120psi on both cylinders. Then I pulled the reeds and checked them, they were ok. I took a peek at the cylinders walls and they look good. Next I ran a leakdown test and it wouldn't hold any air. One intake boot was leaking massively. Its torn. Next I did a spark check and now there is no spark at all on both cylinders. The next suspect would be cdi right? Resistance checks are next. This has a ARA Racing head on it. I've never heard of that one yet. Can anyone give me some insight on how good of product it is? Are other size domes available for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted May 18, 2013 Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 1st, get rid of the Ricky Stator. You mean ADA head? Proprietary domes. Some people have problems with the head leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted May 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 I will need to take another look at the name. I'm not sure now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toytech Posted May 18, 2013 Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 put the original stator back in the fix the air leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted May 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 I'll have to contact the customer and see if he still has it. If not I'm going to try to talk him into a race tech stator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckwheat Posted May 18, 2013 Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 TORS eliminated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted May 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 Yeah the tors is eliminated. The carb switch plugs are just unplugged. The throttle switch is still plugged in and the tors module is still plugged in. Don't the carb switched ones need to be looped on each connector? Or can you just unplugged the tors module to get the same results? I've test the ignition switch and kill switch. The kill switch is real loose in the control housing and I'm not getting a solid continuity when I move it back and forth. So I disconnected the B/W wire and kicked it and still no spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted May 18, 2013 Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 You say customer, I hope you don't do this for a living? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted May 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 I'm trying to understand how the ignition system works. By looking at the schematic it looks like the CDI wants to see a ground at the key switch and no ground at the kill switch. The tors module supplies a ground to the cdi when there is a malfunction and kills the ignition. Also the parking brake wiring is missing. And my schematic doesn't have that in the diagram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted May 18, 2013 Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 But anyway, un plug EVERYTHING except coil cdi and stator. Now jump the black and red/black that were going to the key switch. See where you at with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted May 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 I did exactly that and still no spark. I have a friend with a running shee with the same style cdi. I'm going to take it and bolt it on his bike and see if his won't start. If so he has a good used one for sale. It will also need a kill switch or eliminate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted May 18, 2013 Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 I run a tether. I have no lights so that doesn't matter. But you can run the lights on a separate switch. If you must Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted May 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 If they don't want to spring for a new control switch. I would just run the kill switch control side to a ground and leave the control housing intact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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