rg97 Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 Hi, I'm a newbie here but I'm looking for some help. I'll start at the beginning. I took my shee out about 4 days ago to take a rip down the street, and it seemed to not run right 1-4, but fine 5-6. It seemed like it was shifting kinda hard, and it wasn't pulling as much as I'm used to. It barely even picked up the fronts. I didnt think much of it, but then i noticed that when i was in a gear, mostly 1st, even when i had my clutch pulled in, it wanted to move. I figured i would look at it later, I had other things to do, and yesterday i tried again. This time, it still shifted slightly hard, but now the clutch wont even disengage. If I'm in first, with the clutch pulled in, it moves like it normally does in 1st. the only way to stop it is to use brakes to stall it. I changed to oil to a penzoil platinum 5w-30, and i didnt get a chance to try the clutch again cause it rained pretty hard today. Any help is appreciated for assistance. If you need any more details just ask I can answer them. PS: It is not the clutch cable. No matter how much i adjust it, it still does the same thing. My only guess is that the pancake bearing that i put in during the rebuild (about 1 hour of run time on the rebuilt engine) is acting up and maybe it came loose somehow. When i drained the old oil, i found almost microscopic pieces of aluminum in the old oil, but i figure it was from the milling that i did on my cases and the pieces were chips that i missed with the vacuum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finch Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 is the acutator lining up on the case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrubtherubber Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 just putting in my 2 cents I dont think penzoi platinum is designed for wet clutches i might be wrong. second milling the cases and just trying to vacuum the shavings is a big no no. third if you look at your clutch actuator lever (the arm that the cable pulls on the stator side) theres an arrow where it lines up your going to have to pull the clutch cover adjust it to that arrow then try it if its still not disengaging id say a new clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finch Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 and also could be a grooved basket if everything checks out with the clutch adjustment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rg97 Posted April 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 the actuator lines up fine with the case. I knew about the two arrows on the actuator and case. they line up perfectly. the clutch is a full hinson. I know that just a vac wouldnt do the job, so i did wash the whole thing many times over until i thought i got everything. I just put in the penzoil platinum yesterday, i wanted to try a thinner oil (5w) because i thought maybe the old oil was too thick. What it had in it was SAE gear oil 80w for wet clutches and transmission, not just a 2 stroke specific tranny oil. I'll probably tear the cover off and see what i find. When i say i milled my cases, i really just smoothed the inside out where the casting was slightly rough till it shined Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 I always set my actuator to the left of the arrow on cases. So it has more throw. But I think your problem is your pancake bearing came out of adjustment and the nut fell off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rg97 Posted April 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 Thats what i figured, the pancake bearing... this is just great... new rebuild and i already have to tear into it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rg97 Posted April 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 I always set my actuator to the left of the arrow on cases. So it has more throw. But I think your problem is your pancake bearing came out of adjustment and the nut fell off. I didnt find any steel in the oil, so hopefully if the nut came off its just sitting in the bottom and not being knocked around by the gears and basket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted April 30, 2013 Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 does it have normal tension on the clutch handle? If the pancake came out of adjustment you would have way less handle or a free play handle. If the handle has normal tension then it is compressing the clutch springs meaning the pressure plate is dissengaging. So in this case you might have some basket, hub, or fiber/steel plate problems. Did you put the big washers on both sides of the basket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted April 30, 2013 Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 I always set my actuator to the left of the arrow on cases. So it has more throw. But I think your problem is your pancake bearing came out of adjustment and the nut fell off. That can work, but if you go too far it will give it less throw, because the rod will fall off the lobe of the actuator. I have even seen welds applied to the actuator (on a big drag bike) to increase the duration of the lift (like a cam). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rg97 Posted April 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 Tension is normal. I'll try and pull it apart today or tomorrow. Not sure if this matters, but when we did the rebuild we noticed that the PO had only put one of the big washers on the clutch (maybe he forgot or lost the other), so we did order another one and put it on. It is together right, I know that. I wont know anything for sure until i tear into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUILDER Posted April 30, 2013 Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 If the arrow lines up like it should then the nut did not fall off of the adjuster. If the nut was gone the arrow would no longer line up. Sounds like to me something got put together wrrong in there. I would guess you had the clutch adjusted to tight and smoked the clutch. Pull the cover and look at your clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted April 30, 2013 Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 That can work, but if you go too far it will give it less throw, because the rod will fall off the lobe of the actuator. I have even seen welds applied to the actuator (on a big drag bike) to increase the duration of the lift (like a cam). Yea your'e right J-madd, im only talking like a 1/8" past the arrow tops. The clutch just feels better. Been doing it for years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rg97 Posted April 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 If the arrow lines up like it should then the nut did not fall off of the adjuster. If the nut was gone the arrow would no longer line up. Sounds like to me something got put together wrrong in there. I would guess you had the clutch adjusted to tight and smoked the clutch. Pull the cover and look at your clutch. I hope you mean new fiber plates and discs, not a basket and pressure plate... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rg97 Posted May 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2013 found problem. one of the clutch screws was loose, so when i pulled in the clutch, the pressure plate was going like \ and the place where the screws were tight was not disengaging. While its apart im going to buy a barnett dirt digger kit, which imo is the best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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