sheerider11 Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 The long rod supposedly puts less stress on the cylinder walls when the crank rotates as it does not allow the angles of the rods to get too aggressive as to let the piston push into the wall. There have been guys who said it doesn't matter and there have been guys who says you shouldn't buy a crank without it being a long rod. Personal opinion......no matter what....if you don't take your time and do your research.......it wont matter if its a long or short rod crank when it spits it out..... I'm not a fan of the short rod. I had one season. Now I had to bore the egg shape out of my cylinders. So now I'm going with the long rod. You could really see the wear on the pistons and cylinders. Not happy at all about that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted May 8, 2013 Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 Race fuel is fine in two strokes. It will help make a little more grunt by allowing more timing and compression. However, you need to make sure the head is cut and re chambered to burn it correctly or even get a cool head with correct domes for your set up. On that note, have the domes/head cut for the stroker and don't bother with a spacer plate at all. Also, are you porting for this combo? The crank will be useless with out at least some mild port work to compensate for the stroke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris327 Posted May 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 Race fuel is fine in two strokes. It will help make a little more grunt by allowing more timing and compression. However, you need to make sure the head is cut and re chambered to burn it correctly or even get a cool head with correct domes for your set up. On that note, have the domes/head cut for the stroker and don't bother with a spacer plate at all. Also, are you porting for this combo? The crank will be useless with out at least some mild port work to compensate for the stroke. yes there will be alot of port work and i have a cool head with high comp domes. not sure what size... i have always ran 110- 115and worked fine but it just put a hurtin in my wallet. oh and btw my shee before was not stock either... i can already imagine some of you guys flaming me thinking i was loading 115 in a stock engine lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey83 Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 I wouldn't do port work on cylinders that are now .060 over personally. Who is doing your porting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coryv4 Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 yes there will be alot of port work and i have a cool head with high comp domes. not sure what size... i have always ran 110- 115and worked fine but it just put a hurtin in my wallet. oh and btw my shee before was not stock either... i can already imagine some of you guys flaming me thinking i was loading 115 in a stock engine lol why the fuck were you loading 115 in your engine? if you need that high of octane you should just run alky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coryv4 Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 you could buy about 30 gallons of alky for the price of 10 gallons of 115 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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