Chris327 Posted April 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Same thing happened to my banshee before, it was running funny then stopped and it wouldnt kick over, did a leakdown test and it had an air leak so it broke the big end bearing and broke the skirt of the piston. same thing with my piston, the skirt is blown off but when i did a leak down test it looked fine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris327 Posted April 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Willing to bet you wasted it, and the bikes not yours.. Bet you feel like an ass. the bike is mine... you must have misread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
So Cal Suspension Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 sorry for not updating lately, i've been really busy lately at work/school and haven't been able to update this post... i see that i pissed most of you guys off but heres what ive done so far and concluded: did a leakdown test... was fine so i tore off the head and see so far that the left piston is fucked (bottom half of piston gone) it looks like all the shrapnel from that piston went down in the gears so i think that is what locked it up ohh and the rings and rod bearings are also shot but the bore of the cylinder looks to be fine. i'm just waiting for my clutch and stator removal tools to come in so i can open up the case to see the futher damage done. i'm still not sure why it seized up like that? the only thing i can think of is that the shrapnel off the piston got wedged in there somewhere. we will see soon and if you guys know any other way to get the stator and clutch off without the tools please reply... i just want to open this fucker up and see. Well, the good news is, that likely the piston pieces aren't in your gears since that is a separate "compartment". It probably locked up because either a rod is broken on the crank, or the piston is seized in the cylinders. Don't try to remove the flywheel without the right tool. You'll just screw it up and there is a serious shortage of flywheels. Seriously, they're like gold around here. You can remove the cylinder studs and pull the whole cylinder off of the piston and get a pretty good view of everything, without removing the flywheel. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912 Use that link to give you an idea of what you'll be getting into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris327 Posted April 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Well, the good news is, that likely the piston pieces aren't in your gears since that is a separate "compartment". It probably locked up because either a rod is broken on the crank, or the piston is seized in the cylinders. Don't try to remove the flywheel without the right tool. You'll just screw it up and there is a serious shortage of flywheels. Seriously, they're like gold around here. You can remove the cylinder studs and pull the whole cylinder off of the piston and get a pretty good view of everything, without removing the flywheel. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912 Use that link to give you an idea of what you'll be getting into. i'm just trying to see if the crank has survived... this might sound like a dumb question but is there any way of testing it to make sure i don't need a new one cause i mine as well check since i have it half way open (looks fine) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Even if the crank was brand new, 5 minutes before the piston blew up, you still have to split the cases to get the shrapnel out. So, when you get it apart, I would bet that you will find a very well abused, stock, unwelded crank. Even if the crank is really nice, you still need to send it to a builder to get trued and welded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lil Doobie420 Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 there should be absoulty no play up and down on the crank rod.if so its fuked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 I'm not sayin' jereme is right about this guy, but could be. On that note, I love when guys get on here and they post a topic with zero research and then they cuss every one out and say how stupid we all are and act like they aren't mad yet post pissy shit for weeks before they disappear. OP, if you think it is toast, it probably is. Give it a leak down test. Then compression test if you can get the kicker free. Then take it apart and inspect each part like a surgeon. These motors aren't to complicated once you get it apart. Don't take it to the local shop because it almost always results in lack luster results unless you live up the road from Redline or WildCard or someone similar. Just continue to post photos and all specs of the motor and folks here will get you squared away. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris327 Posted May 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2013 well, bad news is that my crank did not survive and left rod and piston is shot... good news is that i have a 4 mill stroker crank with long rods coming in the mail with oversized wiseco pistons. i had a guy who just rebuilds banshees clean my case and jugs up and bore it out. so she should be up and running in about a week or so. i have pictures but i guess they're too big to put on this post so might make an external link or something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted May 3, 2013 Report Share Posted May 3, 2013 Ok, sooooo... If you didn't have a 4 mil before, there's more to it than just stuffing in the crank and pistons. 1st off, you're getting 795 Wiseco pistons for the long rod, right? Next, you need to have the cylinders ported for the 4 mil. Then you need domes cut for the 4 mil. Then when it's all together, do a squish test and leakdown test. Also should think about a modded trans while it's apart. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coryv4 Posted May 3, 2013 Report Share Posted May 3, 2013 and then think about buying more parts because you bored the cyls before you had the pistons in hand. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue97shee Posted May 4, 2013 Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 rut-roh-rorge...i bet someone shoulda asked before shelling out like 600 bucks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lil Doobie420 Posted May 4, 2013 Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 at least u will have a faster bike by the time u get it all said and done with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris327 Posted May 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 i did have it bored to the piston size because all pistons are different also the reason my skirt blew off was because there was play in the piston and it actually made my cylinder an oval shape. i had a .20 bore over and now i have to get .60 over to fix it. im having this guy to help with the crank and stuff so it will be done right. the guy also talked me into a long rod crank... what are your guys' thoughts on that (the one i bought was a 4 mil stroker long rod balanced welded & trued $350 free shipping) and some other questions i have... 1) what octaine should i run (i usually run 110 but recently been told that it is bad on 2 stroke?) 2) should i get an advanced timing plate (i have dyna fs) 3)WTF is a squish test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted May 4, 2013 Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 http://lmgtfy.com/?q=2+stroke+squish+test and some other questions i have... 1) what octaine should i run (i usually run 110 but recently been told that it is bad on 2 stroke?) 3)WTF is a squish test 1) Who the fuck told you that? 3) It's the measurement of clearance between piston and head/dome at TDC. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=2+stroke+squish+test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 The long rod supposedly puts less stress on the cylinder walls when the crank rotates as it does not allow the angles of the rods to get too aggressive as to let the piston push into the wall. There have been guys who said it doesn't matter and there have been guys who says you shouldn't buy a crank without it being a long rod. Personal opinion......no matter what....if you don't take your time and do your research.......it wont matter if its a long or short rod crank when it spits it out..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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