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chassis question


prochassis

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Out the front helps keep the wheels down but doesnt unload all the weight of the bike and rider from the back. It helps quite a bit. Many also move the motor up a few inches. My bike is +12 out the front and +15 out back the way it is designed with the swingarm pivot bolt pushed back an additional 3" in sort of a "V" at the back making the swingarm farther back. I dont know why pics used to work off my phone but they used to.

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You can only go out so far in the rear without loosing traction. For example, a +6" chassis with a +8" arm will hook harder than having a +14" arm on a stock chassis.

would this hold true for asphalt/rigid/suspended chassis as well?i want to build myself a stock frame based asphalt drag chassis thats why i have all the questions. thanks for all the response

mark

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would this hold true for asphalt/rigid/suspended chassis as well?i want to build myself a stock frame based asphalt drag chassis thats why i have all the questions. thanks for all the response

mark

 

While you see some of this style rigids on asphalt. If you run with NHRA or IHRA, they are not allowed in the rules. Not to say they don't run, but usually only allowed at the T&Ts & at the smaller less known tracks.

 

As for building a stock frame based asphalt chassis. There's a few options you can do, LOL! It just takes a little more work to make them work well.

 

Our background is 1/4 mile drag racing. We have been racing a 1/4 mile ATV since 2005 & have around 900-1000 passes. Using a stock frame based chassis. The current combo is +14"s out the back & +1" out the front. We also run on sand with it & it does very well there too.

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While you see some of this style rigids on asphalt. If you run with NHRA or IHRA, they are not allowed in the rules. Not to say they don't run, but usually only allowed at the T&Ts & at the smaller less known tracks.

 

As for building a stock frame based asphalt chassis. There's a few options you can do, LOL! It just takes a little more work to make them work well.

 

Our background is 1/4 mile drag racing. We have been racing a 1/4 mile ATV since 2005 & have around 900-1000 passes. Using a stock frame based chassis. The current combo is +14"s out the back & +1" out the front. We also run on sand with it & it does very well there too.

thanks slower!!! i could get +1 in my c/a when i build them....appreciate it!!

mark

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You will also see drag aarms that put the front wheels +3 or so farther forward. Many of the modded stock frames will stretch the front 4 or 6" or farther on dune bikes and even farther on rigids for track use.

 

We race dunes and dont use wheeli bars and with bigger motors that would need a +12-16 swingarm or longer to not wheelie they just start to not work quite as well as a +6 - 12 front with say a +12 swingarm. The longer front starts to make it hook better more and be more controllable when the bike wants to stand up.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A hillshooter is for dune racing because it gets rough and whooped and is a suspended frame. A rigid chassis can be lighter as well as lower, better setup if needed and will hook harder out of the hole. As an example an 85hp 350 may be in a chassis thats +20 out the front and +6 out the back with a wheelie bar with a total weight of maybe 225lbs sometimes and run very quick times for the motor size. That 85hp rigid could give a 120hp dune bike with no wheeliebar a whoopin on a smooth 300' track. But that +20/+6 cant race dunes at all. The whole setup can be different on those two bikes as well. Gearing, tires , how lean they are tuned, timing, compression etc. You can get away with more if you are only doing it for 3.8 seconds.

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