Motorheadtilldead Posted April 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 wow thanks a lot for the vote of confidence and I guess I'll just pass on any more advice from you if you can't keep a motor running without a fancy crank like that then you must not be much of a mechanic cuz they come from the factory like that and and then on all just blow up because they don't have welded crank if u know how to maintain motor you can keep it running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2strokeshees Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 Your fine with all the NOS parts. Double check everything, make sure you torque everything to spec. If you set the bike up good, jetted correctly, clean filter, plugs, routine maintenance. Take good care of it and don't ride it like a jackass the bike will last you a very long time. My 95 was bought from the original owner and turned into my girls bike, I have done the topend in it once since I have owned it, since 2004. They are very reliable in the right hands. Post up pictures and any other questions you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 If your not gonna race or put paddles on or pipes etc... you can get away without a welded crank for a while if you just drive normal or dont really push it. But otherwise, thats the first and foremost thing i would do. Ive had 2 cranks come out of true on me racing bone stock bikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 I like to lube all bearings with my chosen premix oil. Also soak new clutch plates in your chosen tranny fluid. Make sure you do a leakdown test and that it holds 6psi for 6 minutes with no more than 1psi drop (some say 1psi drop per minute is fine). Personally I don't let the bike run without it holding 6psi for more than 20 minutes. No more than 6 psi for the leakdown test or your going to start pushing out your seals. Do the test with the clutch off and the flywheel off.....makes it easier to check with soapy water for leaks. For gaskets I prefer to use permatex copper gasket sealer. I will warn you though.....if you put it on....don't plan on the gaskets coming off in one piece (I don't trust old gaskets unless I have to limp it through the weekend anyways). For sealing the case halves use either yamabond4 or Threebond 1211. Let us know if you have anymore questions. Jereme Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zillaguy Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 I'd mod the shift star and shift shaft, while I had it apart... Just need a dremel with a rotory file, for cutting hardened steel... It will help it shift alot smoother under power... Almost eliminates missing 2nd gear... Also mod your stator plate so you can advance the timing to +4 degrees.... I would also tig weld the crank pins, just to make sure it doesn't twist... These are all mods you can do in your garage, yourself... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motorheadtilldead Posted April 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 Sounds like valuable information could you tell me more about the shift shaft mod I certainly have the tools for that and know from experience with my 87 about the 2nd gear miss! Also could I get away with some solid tack welds with my mig, I dont own a tig welder :-/ YET I've seen some welded cranks and know that they're done pretty well when welded buy a pro with atih. I have a friend who is an excellent welder that could probably put some really nice beads on it but wouldn't it have to be balanced then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zillaguy Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 I wouldn't do it with a mig... The beads aren't very small or precision with a mig welder.. the window in the shift shaft where the eccentric adj. screw sits needs to be ground out a little so the shift shaft can move further up, before it hits the adj. screw.. Don't take out too much.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coryv4 Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 wow thanks a lot for the vote of confidence and I guess I'll just pass on any more advice from you if you can't keep a motor running without a fancy crank like that then you must not be much of a mechanic cuz they come from the factory like that and and then on all just blow up because they don't have welded crank if u know how to maintain motor you can keep it running then dont expect the motor to stay together long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motorheadtilldead Posted April 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 Thanx zilla guy I'll definitely take care of that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 Best weld on crank is tig with no/little filler. Clean cases well for 3bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motorheadtilldead Posted April 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 okay good to know but could you tell me if after welding it would it need to be trued do to distortion from heat or would it have to be balanced due to added weight? Keep in mind I'm only considering this more than likely I'll be just running a stock crank fir the time being otherwise and possibly adding built crank in the future if I get the funding and approval from the finance department (wife). ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 Truing is the process of making sure it is properly "phased", throws are exactly 180* apart and ends are within runout (centering) tolerances. Welding holds it in tolerance and keeps it from spreading. You replacing pistons after rod failure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motorheadtilldead Posted April 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 yep new everything pistons rings seals gaskets even hardware Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 Jesus tapdancing Christ! It only costs $75 to have a site sponsor tru and weld the crank. It costs me about $100 for a 1 day ride at the coast. If you can't afford $75, you need to sell it and find a cheaper hobby, like hacky sack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 if I get the funding and approval from the finance department (wife). ;-) One of those guys huh? Enough said! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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