RaceTech Electric Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 Hey BHQ, If you haven't seen the other thread, starting here: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=157853&page=7 There was some interest in a race/drag stator with no lighting or charging output. At first I didn't really see the benefit to doing this, without developing a new core, which would be time consuming and expensive. However, after some thought, there is a need and an advantage with this part. Having the ignition windings evenly spaced with no charging/lighting coils next to each ignition pole should significantly lower heat buildup in the ignition windings, and contribute to longevity and reliability. This will make setup and wire routing very simple, with just a single connector for the ignition system wiring harness. This stator will work with any backing plate, stock or adjustable timing plate, and is very easy to install. They will be $139 each, and handmade by special order for now. However, to get this started, I need somebody to test the prototype and give me some feedback. I need somebody that can test the part immediately upon receiving it (within a week at least). They will need to pay full price for the part, which will be refunded after receiving complete feedback. Here's some pictures: Here is the stator out of the box, about to get started: Removed securing zip ties & lighting ground screw: Unwinding lighting/charging coils: Getting there!: Epoxying wire wire connections & leads for ignition coils: And here is the final race stator ready to rock: If you are interested in testing please call me at 760-476-3514, leave a message if I don't answer. You can also email me at evan@racetechelectric.com. Thanks!Now, comments, questions, feedback? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nieskes Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 Ill give ya a call.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Sheerider1029 said the cdi is picky about the voltage it gets from the stator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaceTech Electric Posted April 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 If I completely rewind these I'll have to charge a significant amount. If there is a ton of interest, I can build different winding configurations on this core though. I doubt I would change the ignition coil output since there is not really a performance gain to be had. These supply plenty of peak voltage to run the Banshee ignition perfectly. The real gain would probably be from a hotter coil on the bike. Also regarding the CDI failure in Sheerider's bike, I guarantee that had nothing to do with this stator. At all. That was unfortunate, but was a coincidental failure of his CDI box during testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 No one mentioned failures. Funny you pulled that out so fast. Gary aka Sheerider1026 rewinds stators. Stock and aftermarket junk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101Diesel Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 No one mentioned failures. Funny you pulled that out so fast. Gary aka Sheerider1026 rewinds stators. Stock and aftermarket junk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101Diesel Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 He's defending his product as I would. It was Sheerider11 that had a cdi issue, not Gary. I am running the dc setup without any issues. Racetech has finally brought a quality stator to the market for an affordable price, thank you Evan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 No one here fuckin read or comprehend any more? I am well aware of who had the issues. Neither of you are aware of who I am talking about apparently which now that i think about it is probably a good thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WINDYCITYJOHN400 Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 I got the DC kit for my wife's bike to make the most of the extended ride hours at the Silver Lake dunes this season. Now I just gotta get some sweet High powered lights to go with this new rockin' D/C Stator. I'm sure the drag guys are going to LOVE that stripped down Drag unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider1026 Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 I am lost on this one. Why strip down a new stator for no reason? I can see just redoing the ignition side for someone that will never run lights.. Its like buying a new car and ripping out the air conditioner because you just wont use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WINDYCITYJOHN400 Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 I am lost on this one. Why strip down a new stator for no reason? I can see just redoing the ignition side for someone that will never run lights.. Its like buying a new car and ripping out the air conditioner because you just wont use it. Some of the drag guys wanted a simple system without any extras. No un-used leads. Nice of Evan to make just what they asked for with all new product. (We all know what a shift star mod is....now we can have a drag stator mod. LOL) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 I think this a great idea. Too often guys are building big motors that are nothing but 300' bikes and have to put $400 dollar stators in them. I will be interested to see how these stators hold up in a big paint shaker motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m671054 Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 One suggestion. make the leads long enough so it plugs into the cdi directly. most remount the cdi up under the tank any way. who ever tests this should get a jds front cdi bracket so you could figure out wire length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WINDYCITYJOHN400 Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 One suggestion. make the leads long enough so it plugs into the cdi directly. most remount the cdi up under the tank any way. who ever tests this should get a jds front cdi bracket so you could figure out wire length. I use velcro to mout to the back of the gas tank. It fits in front of the seat and to the stock tank fine. Should fit even better on those aluminum drag tanks. CDI leads run right down to the stator leads. Even less wire than any other set-up. Plus easy to swap CDI's if your having a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 I use velcro to mout to the back of the gas tank. It fits in front of the seat and to the stock tank fine. Should fit even better on those aluminum drag tanks. CDI leads run right down to the stator leads. Even less wire than any other set-up. Plus easy to swap CDI's if your having a problem. tried velco. They shake off on the bigger motors... no worky for me.. I offered my 14dm as a test motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.