Junkyshee Posted April 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Hey guys thanks for all the responses and tips. I do have an update, after switching all of the electronics off my buddy's parts bike that is blown up, I still had no spark. So I used ALL of your Allstate help that you suggested and came to one last option, I swapped the whole wiring harness and had the prettiest blue spark ever. I was so happy lol. I know I was supposed to change the oil and clean carbs before I started it but I couldn't help myself, I put the tank on(my buddies tank because stated above you said my petcock was probably gelled up and it forsure was) added a little fuel, pumped it a couple of times and it fired up 3rd kick!!!! After sitting for that long I was in shock. Of course it wasn't running good because the carbs definitely have to be cleaned ( have them off and on the bench ready to clean tomorrow) but I am happy as hell. I know I'm not finished yet but I heard it start for the first time since I was a kid and I feel like a kid again lol. Thank you all very much for the tips and I'm still open to more! You guys kick ass! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Good job! Glad you got it running. Next thing you should think about doing is a leakdown test. Hard to say if the guy that did the top end rebuild got everything sealed up right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkyshee Posted April 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 I know man I'm crazy excited lol. That is the plan once I get the carbs clean and the oil changed to where I can actually hear it run decent. Is am going to go over everything and quadruple check every nut and bolt and torque, I figure when I get it running and idling I can check for any sort of seeping gasket and such. By the way I seen where I was asked my location, I'm located in Leitchfield Kentucky, if any of you are in the Kentucky area let me know me and my buddies travel to ride every now and then. But tomorrow is going to be a long day and night. Because its getting a full service and tune up, checking everything multiple times and I'm going to try like hell to have this thing ready to go on our big ride Saturday, but if it doesn't happen I'm fine with that, I want to make sure everything is right for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 This isn"t the best way to build a leakdown tester, but it will give you the basic idea. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110585 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 GET A LEAKDOWN DONE FIRST.....then you can fire the bike and work out the little problems it may have. We have seen way too many times where a new guy jumps on here and is all sorts of excited and fires the bike up (which leads to not being able to resist a rip down the street) and blows the motor because he didn't do a leakdown test, like we suggested, first. Its not hard.....the hardest part about doing it on the bike is getting the exhaust off.....but the leakdown test itself IS WORTH ITS WEIGHT IN GOLD....(ok realistically more like lead) but unless you want to go from needing just a "tune up/clean up" to a "now I need a new top end and crank" cause it had a massive air leak and it leaned it all out. we all know the excitement your talking about....but we have learned that there is way too much money and heartache to be had by not completing the 15 minute test. And if you don't, and you do blow your motor up cause remember, someone else built it........we're all going to be giving you shit....a lot of shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkyshee Posted April 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Hey I promise you won't have to give me shit man lol, I trust you guys because I know that you all are way more experienced with them. So I will definitely do the leak down test and make sure everything is good to go. So I just click on that link and follow the procedure???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Like I mentioned, it's not the best way to build a leakdown tester, but it will give you the basic idea. I'm pretty sure you can buy internal PVC pipe plugs that already have a NPT thread hole in them. Then use brass reducer bushings to get down to 1/8" NPT. Get a 0 to 15 PSI gauge like on page 5 of that thread. Grainger is a good source. Also, possibly a welding supply company. For the tire valve fitting, go to an auto parts store and buy a "tank valve". It has 1/8" NPT threads on it and is for use in a portable air tank. For the exhaust, get the rubber caps and hose clamps like on page 5. You can also use the rubber caps off your stock front bumper. To presurize it, get a small basketball/tire pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ginger Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 or use the temp. freese plugs in the exhaust ports Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Here's the leakdown tester I made in the lathe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkyshee Posted April 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 Leak down test went good, compression test went good. Got carbs cleaned and put on, change oil, fired it up, THEN the bottom end was rattling off and on, really weird, ran for about a minute and wouldn't rev up, started to act like it was going to rev and then it died and I'm back to square one, no fire. Stator checked good, pickup is good, wiring is good. I bypassed the ignition and on/off just to make sure and still no fire. I'm about to set this mother fucker on fire. The oil looked like nasty ass water so I'm not sure if it trashed the bearings in it from sitting or what happened but I'm tired of working on it and getting nowhere, thinking about just buying one that runs and go from there. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 That fugger has issues. Tear it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 the leakdown test.....did it hold 6psi for 6 minutes? have you disconnected all the TORS electronics? ie the 2 connectors going to the carbs and the little black box under the left side of the gas tank? How about the parking brake wires coming off the handlebars? those should be disconnected also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 Sounds like the flywheel came loose. If so and the taper and keyway are OK, lap the flywheel and put it back on. There's a youtube video that shows how to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 About the switches, for the bike to run, the key switch needs to be closed and the kill switch needs to be open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkyshee Posted April 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 Yeah 6psi for 6 minutes, I've tried it with the tors connected and disconnected. I about halfway think it may be my coil. But I will pull the side cover off and check the flywheel later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.