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Bore or Not to bore.


dezrik

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I just bought this banshee, The guy told me it had a fresh top end (I heard this before). Its been running pretty strong the last week. I installed a adjustable timing plate and set it at +4 degrees and I went for a little putt on some trails next to my house. I was in 6th gear and had it pinned and all of a sudden it wouldn't take any fuel and was bogging at 1/2-full throttle and eventually died. I pushed it up a pretty big hill and rolled it down and got it started by popping the clutch in gear. Still wouldn't take any throttle but I got it home with 1/4 throttle and choke out (10-15mph). As soon as I got home I pulled the plugs and they were wet of course. I took a quick compression test and The most I got was 80psi After 4 kicks and both cylinders read pretty close to the exact same. Im at 7100ft but Thought it was a pretty low reading and it needs a top end. Anyway I pulled the top end today and I don't know which direction to go the cylinder looks pretty good other then some light scratching but the piston looks pretty bad, rings are thin too. What would you guys do?

 

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if you dont feel any scuffing with your finger nail etc.. and bore is still within spec.. a hone and new pistons will suffice....

 

if you feel nicks with your finger nail and or bore is worn out... go next size up...

 

 

This is Steven's official home version of a "Feeler Gauge".  :rotflmao:

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This is where people either waste their money or waste a good bore, or blame casted pistons because your bore clearance is not right.  The ONLY way to verify a bore is with a bore gauge.  Having it bored for the hell of it is not advisable.  True that damage you can feel may warrant a bore, but just because it is smooth does NOT mean the bore is good and it is also possible and likely that the bore is perfect. 

 

I recently inspected an ORIGINAL 1987 Banshee engine for a family member.  I was shocked that she was well within spec.  I told him to put it together and ride it a few years and go from there.  There is a reason there are dimensions in the book.  Looking at a bore just does not tell the story. 

 

Regarding cast pistons, they get a bad rap and if you read back to some of my previous content years ago, I explained that casted or hypereutectic pistons DO have their place and WILL last longer than forged pistons compared side by side.  The casted piston contains much more Silicon and is a harder alloy that resists wear and thermal expansion.  They also expand more uniform thus require much less bore clearance. 

 

Don't sell casted pistons short.  Forged do have their place but 90% of Banshee engines will do great with cast pistons. 

 

 

Brandon

Mull Engineering

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Hold on a second, you only kicked it 4 times for the comp test? And you Installed an adjustable timing belt?

 

Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2

Fixed, I don't know wtf I was thinking. Yeah kicked it over 4 times to get 80psi, then I kicked it 6-7 more times but the compression didn't get any higher

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