skyline_898 Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Hey guys, just got a new to me banshee. Its a 2002. Performance wise all it has is fmf sst pipes and a uni air filter. The guy I got it from has had it for 5 years and didn't ride it much and I'm not sure how well he took care of it. It has run in over 2 years, but I threw some gas in it and it started up after 4 kicks, so I guess that's a good sign. However, I am afraid to run it much more until I do some maintenance on it, been researching on the forums for a bit and so far my list is as follows: 1. change plugs (ngk br8es?) 2. flush radiator 3. change trans fluid (which brand would you recommend, I read it takes 10w-30 motor oil) 4. grease suspension I am sure I am missing some things, so any suggestions would be great. I'm planning on taking it out with my buddy when he goes to an off-road park in May. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Clean carbs, check sprockets and chains, if it has the TORS still get rid of it, if it truly hasn't been ran in a couple years Id mix the oil a little heavy for the first tank or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyline_898 Posted March 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Chain needs to be tightened and cleaned for sure. I know they have o-ring chains, is it okay to just soak it in kerosene to clean it? I have some bel-ray chain lube for afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheeboy01 Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 do not use normal motor oil u need wet clutch gear oil or 80w gear saver or automatic transmission fluid is probably the best if u use reg stuff u will burn out your clutch ...be sides that I would just cheek your break fluid flush it if needed. check your chain (clean and tighten if needed) flush radiator like you said. clean carbs.. clean air filter cheek tire pressure you want only 4 psi in each tire.. check all nuts and bolts tighten if loose and continue to use the same mixing oil and ratio as previous owner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey83 Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 You can use motor oil. search it to see all the debates. A lot of guys run ATF fluid in the crankcase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrreilly Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 Ditto except don't remove the TORS unless you have the idle screw and tap readily available to install right away, otherwise it won't idle without you feathering the thumb throttle. Not a huge deal but a bit annoying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmare Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 You can use motor oil. search it to see all the debates. A lot of guys run ATF fluid in the crankcase. X2, I'm using mobile 1 10w 30. No problems here. Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 The oil has to say "wet clutch compatible". Hopefuly you drained old fuel first. Clean air filter. Check all nuts&bolts. Lube cables. At least make sure TORS box is unplugged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zillaguy Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 I use Klotz Flex Drive in my transmission, it is designed for 2-stroke powered racing transmissions. Clean carbs, bleed brakes, clean and lube chain, mix your fuel at 32:1 for the first tank, change plugs (i use B8EGV no resistor, there are no TV's or radios in the woods! LOL) clean or replace airfilter, change coolant, put an in line fuel filter on it, there might be some junk in the tank. Last but not least check tire pressure... You live in MI are you going to Bundy Hill, or The Mounds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 Ditto except don't remove the TORS unless you have the idle screw and tap readily available to install right away, otherwise it won't idle without you feathering the thumb throttle. Not a huge deal but a bit annoying. Or you could just use some feeler gauges to set the slide height using the carb top adjusters......... But if you buy the kit it should all be there. List: - Dialectric grease on all electrical connections - compression test - build leak down tester and perform leak down - nut and bolt everything! - grease anything that moves (pull out bolts to grease items with no zerks) - clean carbs properly - fresh plugs - fluids You can use motor oil, really you can poor whatever the hell you want in your machine, but it's an investment and why skimp just to save a buck. Big companies spend millions every year to research petroleum lubrication and they developed motor oil and transmission oils to do different tasks. Any one who tells you to run motor oil to save money is nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedd1 Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 This is right out of the Yamaha manual. As long as the oil is rated SE, Yamaha says it will do the job. And, put the idle screws in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 Yeah, that's before the clutch needs to deal with double the output. For a stock beater it's probably fine. But you spend all that money on a motor and try to save a couple dollars on oil? I'll never get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedd1 Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 The OP has a stock motor with pipes and filters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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