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Posted

Hi BansheeHQ!

 

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I'm Evan from RaceTech Electric. I was on here for a bit last year as I was completing the testing process of my Banshee stators. They have passed with flying colors, and are in use all over the world with excellent results.  After talking with Tyler here at BHQ, I was more than happy to get on board as a sponsor for the site.  I will use this thread to answer questions and post updates about our parts.

 

For the Banshee we make 2 different stators, and a regulator/rectifier.  I'll go into detail about those below.

 

 

RaceTech Electric 200W AC Dual Output Lighting Stator for 1995-2006 Yamaha Banshee

F47742649.jpg

http://racetechelectric.com/i-9530595-95-06-yamaha-banshee-high-power-dual-output-ac-lighting-stator.html

Only $109 each

 

This is a very high quality replacement and upgrade for your stock lighting stator. It fits all 1995-2006 Banshee's.  We keep the cost down by reusing your stock backing plate. It is a very simple installation, and can be done at home. Make sure you have a flywheel puller though!  This stator has a center ground tap in the lighting coil, with wires exiting on either end of the coil. This makes for an easy way to have to separate 100Watt AC lighting coils. You can use 1 of these to run your stock lighting system brighter than before. You can then use the second side of the coil to power additional lights with another 100W available.  This is the way to go if you just want an upgrade to your stock lighting output, and want to add a few additional halogens.  You can use the stock lighting wiring harness and switch as well.

 

RaceTech Electric 200W DC Charging Stator for 1995-2006 Yamaha Banshee

F58373249.jpg

http://racetechelectric.com/i-10388138-95-06-yamaha-banshee-high-power-200w-dc-charging-stator.html

Only $114.99 each

 

The RaceTech Electric 200W stator provides a single phase charging coil with a massive amount of power. This makes for a very powerful DC system to keep a battery charged to power some massive lighting loads.  This system is ideal for HID conversions or LED lighting accessories.  To keep the cost down, this stator reuses the stock backing plate. It is a simple installation. Please use a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel, however!  You can use this stator with any single phase regulator/rectifier and battery. We have a a recommended regulator/rectifier unit however, see below.  We sell this stator individually in case you'd like to use your own parts.

 

RaceTech Electric DC Charging System Kit for 1995-2006 Yamaha Banshee

F58373275.jpg

http://racetechelectric.com/i-10388144-95-06-yamaha-banshee-high-power-200w-dc-stator-regulator-rectifier-kit.html

Only $159.99 per kit

 

This kit combines our popular 200W DC charging stator, and our single-phase regulator-rectifier, for an amazing price.  It is an easy installation, and short of a battery and final wiring, it is a complete charging system.  We do not include a battery with this kit. There are many different ways to mount your battery, and wire your lights or accessories. If you need help setting up and configuring a DC system, please post here and I'll be glad to help.  The stator and regulator connections are plug & play and very easy to set up.

 

Here is a video detailing installation of our Banshee Stator & Regulator for a DC conversion:

 

I look forward to meeting and talking with many of you. I'm proud and happy to be a Banshee HQ site sponsor.

To contact us at RaceTech Electric:

 

http://www.racetechelectric.com

760-476-3514

evan@racetechelectric.com

 

And finally, if there is a lot of interest here, I would be very happy to set up a killer price for a group buy on Banshee parts. I could also offer a discount code for BHQ members.  

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi guys, 

Sorry for the delay answering. Been super busy and I forgot to check back in on this thread. I'll try and keep a closer eye on it.  

Sheerider, we use magnet wire with high temperature insulation rated at almost 300C.  I don't really want to go into specifics about the gauge and specific brand's insulation we use as it makes our stator different than other manufacturers building them. There are only so many wiring configurations you can use, the real quality comes with the specifics of the materials and the build quality.

 

Answ3r, I would not recommend running the DC stator without a battery. At the very least ,connect the rectifier output to a very large capacity to stabilize the voltage for your lights.  From there you can easily power LED's or whatever you'd like. You really wouldn't be able to run HID's without a battery, as even a large capacitor will probably not supply enough peak current when the ballasts are first powered up, resulting in the ballast safety circuits shutting down.

Posted

would I need the DC conversion if I wanted to run these lights?  they are LED but only 15 watt.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dually-LED-2X2-Spot-Light-Lite-ATV-Car-Dunebuggy-Sandrail-UTV-Jeep-Offroad-/380386345023#vi-content

 

Right now I have no lights because the stock ones are hideous,  and im not paying $300 for trailtech lights.  These match the banshee look better IMO

The ac power generated from a stock set up will make a very short life of led lights,  and fyi trail tech's are only $125 new

Posted

would I need the DC conversion if I wanted to run these lights?  they are LED but only 15 watt.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dually-LED-2X2-Spot-Light-Lite-ATV-Car-Dunebuggy-Sandrail-UTV-Jeep-Offroad-/380386345023#vi-content

 

Right now I have no lights because the stock ones are hideous,  and im not paying $300 for trailtech lights.  These match the banshee look better IMO

 

Yes you should really use the DC conversion kit, and power these LED's from a battery.  Technically you can power LED's from Alternating Current, but it is not anywhere near ideal.  You would need an AC regulator to keep the voltage peak down, high rpms and therefore high voltage would damage them. LED's are diodes. They pass current in one direction, positive polarity, and block current in the reverse direction. They will light as the current is positive polarity, and not in the other. However they have a decay time for the light to dim. The end result is a steady brightness (no flickering), but a dim light.  This is also stressful as they constantly blocking current as the output alternates.  Much better and more efficient to run LED's from a 12V battery. However the current draw is low, so the drain on the battery is not much. 

 

Those rigid LED's are great, and a perfect match for our DC conversion.

Posted

I've tested Evan's stator. (From the original batch he offered out for testing when he first joined HQ)

His product is a top quality offering and fills a need we Banshee owners have always struggled with. The OEM stator is ridiculously high priced, so nobody can really afford to buy one when they need a stator. The used stuff is a roll of the dice on if it will work and you can almost never be sure how old it is.

Evan's pricing is fantastic and as you can tell...he knows what he's talking about. His product is not going to let us down like "Ricky Stator" has all these years. Buy with confidence.

 

Glad to see a guy step up and fill a void in the sport, while also staying accessible for help and advice.  :clap:

 

 

 

If you run a stock flywheel that makes no noise when you shake it (no loose magnets) Then run the RaceTech stator of your choice along with an adjustable timing plate (I prefer the models that move the pick-up coil instead of the entire plate)

then couple that with a good OEM coil or a NOLOGY coil/wires and you will have one solid ignition set-up.  :headbang:

Posted

Good news for sure...bad news for my wallet.  god damn mods never stop banghead

 

any ideas were to mount a battery while using the stock air box?  tried searching could only find something if you are running pods.

 

Thanks guys

Posted

I just have a little battery pack i put in my tool compartment.  Fits great, and already has a hole to run the wires through.  It doesnt need a big battery.

Posted

I've tested Evan's stator. (From the original batch he offered out for testing when he first joined HQ)

His product is a top quality offering and fills a need we Banshee owners have always struggled with. The OEM stator is ridiculously high priced, so nobody can really afford to buy one when they need a stator. The used stuff is a roll of the dice on if it will work and you can almost never be sure how old it is.

Evan's pricing is fantastic and as you can tell...he knows what he's talking about. His product is not going to let us down like "Ricky Stator" has all these years. Buy with confidence.

 

Glad to see a guy step up and fill a void in the sport, while also staying accessible for help and advice.  :clap:

 

 

 

If you run a stock flywheel that makes no noise when you shake it (no loose magnets) Then run the RaceTech stator of your choice along with an adjustable timing plate (I prefer the models that move the pick-up coil instead of the entire plate)

then couple that with a good OEM coil or a NOLOGY coil/wires and you will have one solid ignition set-up.  :headbang:

Thanks John! I appreciate the kind words. I'm here to help, and despite busy days I'll try and check in here often.  I'm glad you had a good experience and success with our stator. Not surprised, but glad! haha.

It will work well with an adjustable timing plate. I don't make a backing plate for these, so you can run them with a stock or adjustable plate. It also keeps the cost down so I can retail them much cheaper to you guys.

T

Posted

Good news for sure...bad news for my wallet.  god damn mods never stop banghead

 

any ideas were to mount a battery while using the stock air box?  tried searching could only find something if you are running pods.

 

Thanks guys

The test bike I filmed my video on had pod filters I think, and I made a battery tray above them. Dunes98's idea to mount a small battery in the tool tray is fine. I prefer the sealed maintenance free batteries over AA cell packs though.

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