10mil Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Hi I want the best setup for lienar big torque without go over 64mm stroke +10mm so I think powervalve setup is essentiel? which bore 68 (465cc), 72 (520cc), 73 (540cc), 78 (611cc) It's will be use on ice track on same class of open class (lot of 450 highly modif) it's drive with lock-up clutch and gear cut ( no over-ride) have cpi bigbore exhaust and two 35mm pwk...both can be change for smaller or bigger thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m671054 Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Drag or not? you forgot 85 mm plus the overbores on all mentioned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10mil Posted March 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 I dont need drag setup if killing buttom end and midrange... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10mil Posted March 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 I want get out of the corner and have pull on all rpm.... Cub...,cheetah...,dm...? I like the way of ''square'' engine like 64x68.... if go with bigger bore can i loose bottom end ...becauase i need bigger exhaust and bigger carb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheeboy01 Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 get a 4 stroke u will never have pull on all rmp on a 2 stroke there power comes from high rpm down shift coming out of the corner so u get the rpms up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10mil Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Down shift on the corner is not a trouble...my fun is drive with first crew of the race with a Banshee... and for that I need torquest setup like 60tq and not more than 100HP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
special06shee Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 REDLINE 10cub! Done deal! Youll never look back 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10mil Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 REDLINE 10cub! Done deal! Youll never look back t-rex cylindre without powervalve??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Troll Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 24 serval ftw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10mil Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 24 serval ftw lol iM from quebec not france Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 You are talking Ice oval racing? There are so many options out there it's rediculous. The aftermarket has really kept the Banshee alive and thriving. You could do a T-Rex, but you will need to send it out to be reworked to today's standards and parts availability. There is a guy who just did a Twister set up and he seems to like it for ice racing. You also have the option of a 10mm Serval cylinder that would put you right on the money with your desired requirements. Another stellar option I considered was a Cheetah cylinder which would definitely meet your demands on only a 4mm crank, but it needs to be done by one out of a handful of guys that can really get them to run right. The last option on the list which I am going with is the DM cylinder. 550 CC's out of a 4mm crank. Steer clear of the cub style cylinders. They definitely will have some sort of laggy feeling when you start chopping the throttle and loading the motor up midway through the turn. I've rode a cub on the ice with some clean up work and to get it to even be remotely responsive out of the hole took a lot of timing, compression, small carbs and hand built pipes that to me just looked like Pro Circuits. Just a weird setup when you consider what a cub is really supposed to do and how it really does it. It was choked out on the big end for sure and the thing got hot a lot from the excessive timing and compression and the lack of heat moving out of the cylinder because of the pipes 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lms1977 Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 My buddies 10mil cub from redline has plenty of bottom it is a beast down low and all the way thru its all how it is built.. it runs on race fuel thou not sure if that is a issue for you? He runs 39pwks and shearer pipes I have rode a few cubs and cheetahs and by far it is no slouch anywhere in the rpm range.. that being said my old 10mil serval had more recovery power but no top end after a year plus of tweaking. I built a 10mil cheetah 543cc which seems to be for me (a fat guy) the perfect setup kinda best of both worlds.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10mil Posted March 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 it's ice/tt road courses i only need torque my heart say to ride a banshee so all setup have drag direction.... so my last hope is build raptor 700 turbo....fuck it nooooo please.... give me good receipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10mil Posted March 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 sorry I don't know serval...now I understand is not that...http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operation_Serval lol serval setup look great on 10mil... where to buy it's I only see it at 421 with 4mil at 68mm bore or I need build with shim???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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