Dalton Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 I'm a paul turner pipe fan myself. I've tried lrd, toomey t5, cpi, and for all around riding I perfer mid range pt. They also have great fitment and access to the motor for plug changes and compression checks. For all out draging, cpi all the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheeboy01 Posted March 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 would anyone beable to tell me what size cool head domes i should use for supream pump gas i was thinking 21cc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 call a builder.....tell him what you have. Then tell him you have a $1000 budget and ask him what he recommends that will fall into that bracket and get you more power. They will know what you need, including dome size and what not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 repair a crack in the motor case Can you go into more detail about this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 um yea i was wondering what the "crack" is..... that might be a lil more than your thinking if the crank came apart? if its from the chain breaking and its not leaking oil screw it. screw pt mids. keep the pipes you have. get it ported, reeds, welded crank and trans modifications done you will have a fun lil bike. i have built a lot of these style bikes and they are great starter machines. then you can always do more later. depending on how stout you make the bottom end depends on what all you can do to the top end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheeboy01 Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 yes the crack is from the chain falling off and getting wedged between the motor case and sproket it was leaking oil a little so i put some jb weld there as a temp fix althogh it doesnt leak i am not happy with it and gonna strip the motor down to replace it with another case.. i found a few on ebay for 250 bucks besides the price of that i wanna do everything i can while it is apart ... such as replace piston rings all seals and gaskits weld and trune crank shaft inpesct transmishion get cylenders ported, coolhead with 21..or..22cc domes and v force 4 reeds and cages with a adjustable timming plate.... more suggestions and opinons wanted please leave it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Holy shit, is your spelling really that bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheeboy01 Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 shut up bud am lookin for ideas not stupid coments Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Definitely get rid of the boost bottle. It causes air leaks. Air leaks cause melted pistons! Do a full freshening up of the bottom while you are in it. New tranny bearings, seals, mod the shift shaft, shift star, any janky misc hardware, a Billit basket and fresh clutch, and have the crank rebuilt and welded by someone qualified. Also don't get all offended when people comment on your terrible grammar! Especially if you want the people who have been around these things longer then you to give you good advice. It really is kind of obnoxious every couple days when this place gets flooded with early unlegible posts. Not trying to be a dick by the way. Just trying you how to get ahead of the rest of the goons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheeboy01 Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Definitely get rid of the boost bottle. It causes air leaks. Air leaks cause melted pistons! Do a full freshening up of the bottom while you are in it. New tranny bearings, seals, mod the shift shaft, shift star, any janky misc hardware, a Billit basket and fresh clutch, and have the crank rebuilt and welded by someone qualified. Also don't get all offended when people comment on your terrible grammar! Especially if you want the people who have been around these things longer then you to give you good advice. It really is kind of obnoxious every couple days when this place gets flooded with early unlegible posts. Not trying to be a dick by the way. Just trying you how to get ahead of the rest of the goons. sound like good info man.. what kind of shifter mods can be done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 The shaft that runs through the stator cover and cases to the clutch side has a spot around the eccentric screw that you can grind a little material out of on the top and bottom. The star can have all but the last points ground down to change it to a more smooth rounded profile. There is another product that replaces the shift detent arm with one that has a bearing on the end. Mull engineering also mods the stock arm with a bearing which I would reccomend trying. The Shift Pro kit seems to get really loose and it requires that you use a punch on the back to properly mushroom the fastener they use. You can also do some cutting on the tranny if you have access to the right tooling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheeboy01 Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 sweet all do these things thanks alot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xXbansheeXxXx Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 Toomeys the way to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04_blu_shee Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 Im gonna have a real clean set of T5's ready to bolt on with springs and O-ring on the head pipe with upper gasket and clamps. These pipes are not beat to shit or BLUED like most sold, I just need to figure a price for em then I'll let you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider1026 Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 I have had many pipes on my bike. I mainly blaze around trails and woods ride.. T5's being my favorite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.