M.R. Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Hello, I'm building a 4mil stroker motor 795series piston motor. Looking for opinions on carb size and why 33 or 35 or 35 air strikers? Also need opinion on reed cages V Force 4 or ported/modified stock reed cages and what reed petals work good. Cylinders are stock cylinders ported with raised intakes/ boyseen ports/ 28 mm exhaust port. Also have CPI inframe exhaust. I'm concerned with v-force reeds being all plastic cause I've also seen pictures of broken ones. Looking to ride this quad all around not looking to just drag race the quad. Cant seem to get any great solid answers from other shops I spoke to. Does anyone have Dyno proven comparissons on these products on this forum here also. Thanks M.R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finch Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 id go with some v4s or stock cages with boyesen reeds. as for carbs im a big fan of 34tms plus if your moving up from stockers already have main jets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
421alkybanshee Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Vf3's 39mm keihin with pump for alcohol Billet basket with lockup Everyone has a head Domes too match Stock tranny, modified to shift easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Reeds: If you get a sweet deal on used VF2's or 3's, grab them up. But if you are going to get new ones, go with the 4's. Nothing wrong with the material they are made from. They are fine on everything from mild trail bikes to full tilt drag bikes. However carbon fiber reed petals don't really agree with Nitrous oxide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 id go with VF4's.... wait for windycityjohn to jump on this post and talk to ya......he was one of the guys who did testing for the VF4's and has the dyno # improvements to show for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmare Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Yup, John definitely knows these reeds. They all cost the same new now if I'm not mistaken. Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hercalmighty Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Where do you ride? What kind of riding do you do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.R. Posted February 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Used to ride in the dunes at silver lakes, Mi. but now I want to ride dunes, trails and fields. So I'm looking for all kinds of riding. What carb would be a good choice also? Thanks M.R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 carb's 35mm pwk's air stryker or not dosent really matter. best thing with stryker's is the added vents out the top to stop them from overloading in whoops and jump's etc.. i'd prefer a set of 36/38mm lectron HV carbs due to the extremely easy set up and tuning. but thats me and i like simple... the lectron HV carb in that size will perform on the bottom a lot like a 33mm pwk BUT have better top end power capacity i feel. if your budget allows get the v-4's. replacement reeds for 2's and 3's are in the 100 buck range. so rember that when your looking for used reeds.... the CPI's should be just fine for you. if you want more power consider a differnt top end.. the biggest thing i would suggest ( of course) is a modified transmission. if it wont shift whats it matter if it has more power?? if you want PM me and i can get you information on the trans that i do. and of course all the other what i call "basic" engine build up stuff. billet basket, hd clutch, bearing'd clutch pusher, true'd and welded crank and upgraded crank bearings. and also possibly lightened flywheel, and ignition modifcations. either DYNA or a billet timing plate.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Hmm, dyna. I have been really toying with the idea of a dyna so I can give the bike a whole shit load of timing out of the turn, and retard it as the bike is moving down the straights on the half mile tracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Stay away from Airstrikers. They're a pain to get tuned in. Just run regular 35mm PWK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Cam is right on with everything but the lecs, lol. Don't get me wrong, they are good carbs and Cam loves to tune them. On the other hand, I hate to tune them. I like my PWKs like Tyler said. I run 35s and 39s. Yes, the lecs have less adjustments with only screwing the metering rod in or out, and maybe enough time with a set and I'd like them too. Just had better luck with the Keihins. Did I see a timing plate on your list? That is a must. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Strikers are about as temperamental as my PJ's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sick421 Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 I run 35 airstrikers on my 4mm stock cylinder, they tend to run richer than the regular pwk , ,small pilot like a 40 or 42 , main 142 or 145 . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Guns Racing Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Defenitly a good set of pipes. Cpi or shearer in frames, as stated custom.cut domes for ur setup and fuel, adjustable timing plate, vf4s, upp intakes, 35mm pwks pod filters. That's pretty much my stock cyld 4 mil setup. Runs good enuff for me. Once u've got all that figured out don't forget ur trans. Camatv does a reallllly nice pro mod trans, super easy to shift. Good billet basket and a clutch kit from jeff at FAST. Upgrade ur cooling system, billet impeller and oversized radiator. These will defenitly get u going. Theres plenty more power to be made after u get tired of this setup lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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