banshee352savage Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 So, its not electrical, its not reeds, its not carbs because you traded those out. Whats left? You said that TORS are still on the machine. Are they working properly? Are cables in good order? What about the choke tube between the carbs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hockey1212 Posted February 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 yes the bike ran wicked, THE PROBLEM THAT CAUSED ALL THIS WAS THE TOP of the tors cap was cross threaded and over time sucked air throught it so i got 2 new carbs and for some reason it did not solve the problem so i tore the engine down as compressions was low on the left side. that crank bearing was bad so replaced the bottom and top end to be sure. the bike is recieving lots of fuel as the right side runs good i adjust the idle screw on the carbs and the tors adjustments are in sync. carbs basically suck your hands in when running so base pressure should be ok i dont have a base pressure tester to check but the bottom end was just replaced so i narrowed that out. thats the issue i havent narrowed it down because theres lots of fuel and from what tested sparks constantly just when it starts up will not fire just blows gas out the exhaust. floats are fine in the carb. the choke could be bad but it feels like any other choke ive had on the 3 sets of carbs ive had on the bike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hockey1212 Posted February 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 im sure its probably a fuel problem but the only thing dealing with fuel is reeds and carbs ive swapped both reeds and nothing happens there in the right way to, no chips cracks or anything ( unsure what else i could do to check the reeds) and the carbs as far as they go both slides are in syn facing forward with notch on the engine side, check both main and pilot jets both are good. the spark on the plugs is blue. not sure if theres a certain amount of voltage the coil puts out and if the spark is just not perfectly good enough to run that side, but its there everytime the bike is kicked over so it seems consistant, thanks for the feedback Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hockey1212 Posted February 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 choke works on the carbs and the tors cable are new. had the side covers off and they are functioning. both carbs are in syn idle screw both set at 2 turns out according to manual, motor is stock. what is needed to perform a leakdown test? also an inlinee spark tester ( never done this test) thanks andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 they go both slides are in syn facing forward with notch on the engine side, The notch is supposed to face the filter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 And your problem is your skipping steps because you have new parts. Just because its new dosent mean its in working order Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsharktim Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 Just because a plug will spark when grounded out of the engine doesn't mean it will spark under compression. I've had plugs give a nice blue spark sitting on the motor but had a poor or no spark under compression. Never figured it out till i used an in line spark tester Slide cutouts face air filter....there are many how to write ups here on leakdown testers just search it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hockey1212 Posted February 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 alright, my mistake the slides are in proper, and i do not have an inline spark tester, ive put multiple sets of plugs in just because of thinking mine were bad, i willl try a leakdown test next, appreciate the help, sorry for the confusion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 just to humor us.......try unplugging the TORS brain box. Its under the fuel tank on the left side of the bike....its a small little black box. Sometimes the brain can go bad. Also do you still have the parking brake wiring in place? Just because you replaced the reeds and the boots and rebuilt the lower end doesn't mean there can't be a leak. Hell the intake on the jugs are a notorious spot for leaking even with new gaskets. I know ive gotten advice from site sponsors on here to actually take a small amount of case sealant and smear it on the gaskets before installing. Usually what I do is get the Permatex copper spray for gaskets......it makes a tacky bond for the gaskets and at the same time the copper fills in small little inconsistencies on the mating surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uf21 Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 Might sound stupid but is there enough fuel in the tank? I was cleaning a mates carb last week and after cleaning turned on the bike but the lft side had was bogging and had no pressure. After an hour of trying to figure it out, I had a look in the tank and there was only enough fuel for the reserve tank so I switched it on reserve and all ran well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hockey1212 Posted February 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 yes the parking brake wiring is still in place, and i will try sealing up the boots and gaskets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 get a manual and do WHAT IT SAYS TO DO> ohms test the BOOTS off the coil wires, i would venture to say flywheel, stator, or bad plug boots. you can get one of those spark testers and unless it will jump a big gap it wont fire the cylinder under a load.. if the stator is WEAK it will run on one cylinder.. and or break up bad on top end. also if the gap is too far it can cause this BUT usually they will idle just fine.. other electrical problems may exist you said you took it to a few "shops" did that have someone that knows how to work on this model specifically?? or just some "tech dude" that rides dirt bikes.. if you were close i'd say bring it to me and i promise i will find the problem had some really weirdo ones come across my lift a few times.. also its a far fetched problem but an out of phase crank can do this also.. thats something nobody ever checks for.. also i'd suggest a real leak down test.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hockey1212 Posted February 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 ok, ill will check do a resistance test, my stator doesnt seem to be in the best of shape i just dont understand how the stator can be bad and only run on the right side even though ive swapped the coil wires and put 2 new spark plug boots on it, i kow that if the poles on the stator arent in the best shaoe then some voltage loss can occur but wouldnt swapping plug wires solve the electrical issue. and i am going to build the leakdown tester today, appreciate the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 truth of the matter is that electrical issues cant be guaranteed. Too many times have mechanics come across and issue and the correct answer to the problem doesn't work....or doesn't do shit. Which makes everyone start running around trying all sorts of odd ball shit while they're brain slowly starts to turn to something of the consistency of moosh. That is why electricity mostly deals with theories lol. That is why they came out with the KISS rule. Keep It Simple Stupid. I cannot tell you how many times I have walked into a situation and applied that rule and made a comment to the mechanic and he said it wouldn't work........2 days later he had his head down when he walked past me. The part that will bite you in the ass is when you say "but it can't be that because......(insert dumb ass comment)" This is how you solve problems....... -Find out what the symptoms of said problem are. -VERIFY that the symptoms really exist and are noted. -Come up with an attack plan....starting with 1st thing to check and ending at the LAST thing to check. -AND FINALLY (this is what shafts people EVERYTIME) stick to your whole damn list and follow it WITHOUT SKIPPING ANY OF THE SHIT YOU PUT ON IT!!!! Its that ONE thing that you skip that keeps you from riding. Let us know what you find. Jereme 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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