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Pods vs airbox


h20dies

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me personally...  i prefer a highly cut up stock box over pods.   the pods rubb on the frame get holes in them and are running right next to your super hot exhaust.   you almost have to have those goofy slip over insulation thangy's/    if your just a cruiser or weekend warrior, trails, dirt, sand.  i'd suggest a highly modd'ed box.    maybe i could do a write up on how i do them..  they are easy to remove and its only one filter to clean.. 

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me personally...  i prefer a highly cut up stock box over pods.   the pods rubb on the frame get holes in them and are running right next to your super hot exhaust.   you almost have to have those goofy slip over insulation thangy's/    if your just a cruiser or weekend warrior, trails, dirt, sand.  i'd suggest a highly modd'ed box.    maybe i could do a write up on how i do them..  they are easy to remove and its only one filter to clean.. 

this^^^^ I ran a Pro Flow and highly cut box on a 75hp 4mm stock cyl.. so i know its good up to that much without losing HP.

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No. It proves you were making 75 hp WITH the box. No evidence as to how much power you were losing.

NICKISGOD was running the aftermarket aluminum airbox on his 485 Cheetah motor.

He made 81hp with it.......and 95 without it.

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No. It proves you were making 75 hp WITH the box. No evidence as to how much power you were losing.

NICKISGOD was running the aftermarket aluminum airbox on his 485 Cheetah motor.

He made 81hp with it.......and 95 without it.

Actually I DID dyno it both ways. There was less than 1hp between the two. Mind you this was a stock carbed bike,so it had the STD clamp on pods for stock carbs,,not the larger style you get with larger carbs.

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I think this is where the biggest gain from running pods is... when running larger carbs but a intake set up that was meant to only supply 26mm carbs... I have thought about asking JD or someone in the possibilities of making a 2-1 intake set up for dual carbs that would flow and better match my carbs i was running (35pwk's) needless to say you can see which route I ended up with lol...

 

also dont forget all you guys are doing is talking peak hp... how much loss / gain did you have through out the range doing the swap... if you lost 1-3 hp through out the range is a fair step back

 

No were not just talking peak HP. The curve that leads to the peak number is power too. You have never seen a curve go straight up at the very end.

It's funny that we see plenty of posts where people remove the airbox lid and have to go up a pilot size or up one on the main.......That's on a fairly stock motor! If your motor is modded, airflow is an even more important factor.

 

I think in Sprinklerman's example...the limiting factor was more due to the carb size, than the filter box. (But I'm speculating.)

 

I don't run air boxes. Working on stock carbs, with an air box is almost as annoying as messing with adjusting a stock rear carrier. LOL Way worse when your doing multiple jetting changes during a dyno session.  banghead

I run pods on a 370 long rod bike and that machine has been down the entire length of the river at "The Badlands" in Attica IN. Once going up stream and once going down. (Water deep enough that my nerfs and shifter were under water.)

I just run them with K&N's and an Outerwear's. I went everywhere that a Raptor 700 with a full air box could go.

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No were not just talking peak HP. The curve that leads to the peak number is power too. You have never seen a curve go straight up at the very end.

It's funny that we see plenty of posts where people remove the airbox lid and have to go up a pilot size or up one on the main.......That's on a fairly stock motor! If your motor is modded, airflow is an even more important factor.

 

I think in Sprinklerman's example...the limiting factor was more due to the carb size, than the filter box. (But I'm speculating.)

 

I don't run air boxes. Working on stock carbs, with an air box is almost as annoying as messing with adjusting a stock rear carrier. LOL Way worse when your doing multiple jetting changes during a dyno session.  banghead

I run pods on a 370 long rod bike and that machine has been down the entire length of the river at "The Badlands" in Attica IN. Once going up stream and once going down. (Water deep enough that my nerfs and shifter were under water.)

I just run them with K&N's and an Outerwear's. I went everywhere that a Raptor 700 with a full air box could go.

I agree 100% with this ^^^

 

When we put bigger carbs on it it perked up considerably. I bet at that point the airbox would have started to choke it down some.

They are the worst to deal with when jetting. although one you remove all the excess , you can pop them off pretty quick...but you still have those boots to deal with. haha

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I agree 100% with this ^^^

 

When we put bigger carbs on it it perked up considerably. I bet at that point the airbox would have started to choke it down some.

They are the worst to deal with when jetting. although one you remove all the excess , you can pop them off pretty quick...but you still have those boots to deal with. haha

 

 

 

See, we continue to agree. I can't tell you how many people end up with ripped and torn boots or stripped out clamps from all the BS that goes into jetting changes with the stock carb/airbox. Or worse, the boots end up slipping off on a ride and the guy "Dusts" the motor.

 

Ah ok fair enought!!

 

 

Haha yea. I got REAL SICK of dealing with my airbox chasing jetting for a long time... Especially trying to line up everything to properly clear ext... Pods where a true blessing for me haha

 

 

And windy... A lot of people told menot to run them if I trail ride ext.... I've been in a fair amount of mud where my see was covered head to toe... Looked at my pods and 1 pod had a spot of dirt that prob didn't hit it directly lol... On shees the pods are pretty well protected with the fenders on

 

Even ice racing snow dust goes everywhere and ices everything up in a hurry. I had little signs of icing in the pods directly

 

I'm not going to paint it like pods are invincible. You hit a deep puddle at high speed and you might get the Outerwear's wet enough that the motor will die. (It's happened to me 3-4 times) But by the time you get done with your "dude did you just see that story".....it will be ready to fire up again. But you won't drown the motor.

I followed ROLLINRHINO all over The Badlands when he was on his 4X4 King Quad and I did just fine. (Now I don't try and treat my quad like it's a jet ski or 4X4 utility quad.....but I put it anywhere you could without risking needing a winch.)

 

The way I see it, Outerwear's shed water off of them like water off of a ducks back.

Filter boxes let you go into a little deeper water, and protect from splashes......but if the airbox gets a quick dose of water....it can only drain so fast out that little hole in the bottom. Untill it does....your filters and carb mouths are under water.

Modded airboxes improve airflow, but at the lowering of the protection. This drop in protection (In my opinion) isn't worth having to mess with the hassle of the airbox when working on the carbs.

Plus, you can't look at your bike from the side without noticing the condition of your pods. (I bang the dust off my Outerwear's on every fuel up.)

But the filter in an airbox can get neglected all season. (YEARS for some owners. LOL) Just my thoughts on the topic......neither system in wrong. I'm just sharing a point of view.  :shrugani:

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