Colby Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 hahahaha just kidding man. i dont know who ported this one. might of been locogato Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Okay, my question was answered once I was able to open the pdf.I couldn't open the pdf before because my connection is tempermental. Today its quick. So, With a stock setup naw. http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/5296/leftjz.jpg ^this black is what you don't want to mess with. Page 16 "This is what I call the lower transfer ports. Youwant to match the port to the case and the gasket. Making them larger than thecase or the gasket at the bottom will not help you, it will cause unwantedturbulence." BLOODRAGE, on 11 Feb 2013 - 18:21, said:For educational purpose only port at your own risk. if you have a set of cylinders to practice on then giver,remember to take your time and do it right !!https://workspaces.acrobat.com/?d=5eNaltKS9ZOTGrp0FI7cGA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colby Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 ^^ huh ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 I had a question posted on page 5 but I found the answer in the pdf ( I couldn't load it). I wanted to open up the base gasket sealing surface because there is room and it won't leak but according to this guy who has more experience than me it will not help a stock application - need 'big bore' or stroker and even then I haven't seen it happen on the outside transfer. I suppose you want stuff mirrored on the cylinder like if you hog out the outside transfer too much you could cause ill-effects with the lack of fresh charge coming from the inner transfer. my guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pasi S. Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 blue point 90* air die grinder will get you started. i used one for a while ( till i got the ART 90* for the foredom) That Blue Point works good in my opinion. Payed 175€´s for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 I did some case-matching by hand today with a round hand file that I heated up and curved like Jennings suggested 36 years ago... That was interesting and left the surface a little too rough. I left extra room for me to hit it with some dremel wheels to smooth it out - reluctant to post photos until I'm done because of how it looks. Tell you what I didn't do though - Didn't slip and run the bit all over my base gasket area. Plus+ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Not entirely good. Being overly rich will create overheating issues as well..... I realize that but I don't think overheating will be an issue when its 18 degrees out. I'm just happy that its not too lean and fry my pistons right off the bat. Now I can work down from the rich side. My blaster was the opposite. I jetted it by input of the builder and board members. My needle was way off lean. I had multi point seizers a few times and went through 2 pistons within a couple months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 that pic of the suzuki is old as hell! ha ha.. if there is any doubt of my porting "skills" i think my bike's performance speaks for itself.. hope brandon understands those power valved cyls.. hurry up and get that thing done. i'd love to watch you and tanner race! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Its going in my duner for the time being. Havent had the time or money for the dragger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 I realize that but I don't think overheating will be an issue when its 18 degrees out. I'm just happy that its not too lean and fry my pistons right off the bat. Now I can work down from the rich side. My blaster was the opposite. I jetted it by input of the builder and board members. My needle was way off lean. I had multi point seizers a few times and went through 2 pistons within a couple months.Don't let the cold temps make you to comfortable. Rich can be just as bad as lean especially in the cold. The extra air helps burn that extra oil. Hence why it won't show much oil on the plug. In turn makes heat. This pic is of the head off my bike after tryin to run race gas to rich. O rings just melted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lms1977 Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Don't let the cold temps make you to comfortable. Rich can be just as bad as lean especially in the cold. The extra air helps burn that extra oil. Hence why it won't show much oil on the plug. In turn makes heat. This pic is of the head off my bike after tryin to run race gas to rich. O rings just melted. It may be just the pic but that is a very odd looking dome profile? Almost looks like fron the squish band to the bowl is a straight in cut? Am I correct or is it the lighting in the pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Probably the lighting. These are actually the same profile as the NOSS stuff. Only done by the fella that taught David. Nobody caught the crack in the dome till I posted it in the live section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BANSHEE HP Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Probably the lighting. These are actually the same profile as the NOSS stuff. Only done by the fella that taught David. Nobody caught the crack in the dome till I posted it in the live section. i only saw it in the live thread. as far as that dome, like ddu said in that thread the machining of the dome looks odd. ive cut all my domes for the past 4 years or so, none have the little bit of what looks like chatter that your domes have. with that being said i know you said it a wicked head/domes, they maybe be thin in general and when they were cut for your application it left very little material, especially with north of 180psi. since your mentioning heat in winter conditions we all know jetting plays into it but not all after market heads offer proper or even improved cooling. bottom line is you need new domes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lms1977 Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Probably the lighting. These are actually the same profile as the NOSS stuff. Only done by the fella that taught David. Nobody caught the crack in the dome till I posted it in the live section. I looked at that "crack" and figured it was oil or something? Wow I never knew you could crack a dome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 i only saw it in the live thread. as far as that dome, like ddu said in that thread the machining of the dome looks odd. ive cut all my domes for the past 4 years or so, none have the little bit of what looks like chatter that your domes have. with that being said i know you said it a wicked head/domes, they maybe be thin in general and when they were cut for your application it left very little material, especially with north of 180psi. since your mentioning heat in winter conditions we all know jetting plays into it but not all after market heads offer proper or even improved cooling. bottom line is you need new domes They are wicked domes, cut by Jim. There is just not enough material to take the abuse that the head was designed for. Spoke to a guy at wicked and he basically said that is why they are no longer make that style head/dome combo and are doing a new design. In this pic look at how deep the fins are machined. Takes most of the supporting material away from the combustion area. So get it hit and put it under the stress of compression and CRACK! Sorry to thread jack. Just trying to make a point that just because it's cold doesn't mean your bike is gonna run cool. In all actuality, more cooling system problems occur in the winter then in the summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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