joewest Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 I just got my banshee yesterday. Its a 2001. It has absolutely no low end, ive rode 2 strokes before, i know they don't have much but there is nothing till it hits the powerband. Once it hits the powerband it runs fantastic tho. It has fmf fattys thats the only mod i can tell it has. Pretty sure its the stock air filter. What can i do to get some more low end? I just ride trails and fields no track or dunes. If i get a k/n filter can i just leave the air box cover off? Or would i need to get the k/n cover replacement? Sorry if this has been brought up b4 this is my first post im new to this site and the banshee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joewest Posted February 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Also seems like my thumb throttle is pretty stiff can i lube it or adjust it? My clutch is really hard to pull in also. The guy i got it from said he just put a clutch in it a heavy duty one could it be stiff cuz its new? I had a 08 yz450f dirtbike b4 this maybe the clutch was just way easier to pull on it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joewest Posted February 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Also wats the best book to buy for this quad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joewest Posted February 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Sorry i keep thinking of more stuff. Whats the best site to buy parts for these? Ive been looking on motosport.com prices seem decent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
special06shee Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Stock banshee are pretty good as far as low end.. If everything is proper your banshee with fmfs should be a great trail quad!! First thing id do is a compression test. I good topend should kick out 120psi or better! If compression is good then id look into the carbs. Make sure they are clean and properly jetted! There are a ton of mods to help power but zero sense in doing any of them if your quad is not mechanically sound! Like i said before, your quad should have a nice amount of bottom end the way it is. I bet you need a top end rebuild!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joewest Posted February 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Hmm yea i know the carb is leaking i have read around it says it could be dirty or need a new needle. Whoever had it b4 me really didnt take good care of it. Im planning on going all threw it. I wanna get a good book on it first tho. Compression is right at 120psi. It hauls some serious ass when it hits the powerband. Just dont feel right in the low end. It cranks right up and idles fine tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
special06shee Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 For got to add also check reed peddels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joewest Posted February 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 What size jet should i be running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 200, 210, 220, 240 are stock jets w/ part #'s but really just depends on what the dealer set it up as originally. 200 is for regular temperature riding. Biggers are for colder weather or altitude changes. see service manual section 5 - 9 Welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 fmf jetting at sea level, warmish temps, is 260 main 30 pilot with lid on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joewest Posted February 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 I live in texas very humid and hot. If i get a k/n filter can i run it without the lid? Or do i need the kit? Can i adjust the clutch so its easier to pull? Should the thumb throttle be pretty stiff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 if it has stock carbs, the thumb lever shouldnt be stiff at all, if both cables (clutch/throttle) are stiff and look some what old, get some new ones. new cables can make a world of difference if your ones have some time on them. has it still got the tors ? (big box things on top of the carbs with an flat blade screw diver adjuster on top, you adjust from above, removing your seat) from closed lid, to open and k/n you will need to rejet. youll need to go up a few sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joewest Posted February 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Ok ill get new cables. Ill have to check on the tors there is a plug thats unplugged that i believe is part of the tors right behind the radiator on the left side? What jets would u recommend me using if i get a k/n and remove the lid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 If you have the big clunky boxes on top of the carbs, you need a complete TORS removal kit which will come with a new cable. Clymer is the manual to get. If you're going to keep the stock air box, this is the filter setup to get. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=457 You can take the spring out of the thumb throttle. It's only needed for the TORS. If you don't ride in mud, you should get pods and outerwears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Joe.....correct the TORS brain box is what is under the fuel tank on the left. It seems like your pretty eager and also seems like you've looked over the bike a time or two and noticed some things that others may have overlooked. Good job on not sounding like a 4 year old trying to explain nuclear fission. Clymers manual is the manual your gonna want. However you can download the factory service manual here on the site. Personally i'd still get the clymers. For motor mods, we have a few site sponsors on here that do great work. Those include FAST Racing (farmandsandtoys.com), HJR, Redline Racing, Wildcard Racing.........Personally I have dealt only with Jeff at FAST Racing.....great guy and great service. He carries almost EVERYTHING you could need for your bike.....and if he doesn't carry it then usually he can tell you who will and where to get it. From the sounds of your low end problems, it would sound like your jetting may be off. For some reason a lot of previous owners are smart enough to rejet the main jet based on the FMF pipes.....but no one looks at the pilot jet. When I got my bike with FMF Fattys on it, I almost had to pump the throttle while slipping the clutch just to get the revs high enough to make it to the powerband. It wound up being the previous owner did not go with a larger pilot jet..... FMF Fattys LIKE 27.5 pilot jets.......stockers are 25 and cant feed enough fuel at low speed for the pipe. Also your jetting (assuming your riding AROUND 1000-1700' and its say around 60*) should be roughly in the 260-270 main jet area and a 27.5 pilot jet area.........if the pipes are the only mod. As the bike gets the opportunity to breathe better based on you putting on more performance parts, you will continue to have to rejet. Jereme Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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