banshee8zero2 Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 How do I adjust the timing and where Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 Ok, there are a few different ways to adjust timing with a few different products. Degree Key: basically a different woodruff key that tilts the fly wheel a touch forward to gain timing. They tend to shear off so they're garbage in my mind Aftermarket CDI: lots of ignitions out there allow you to run either pre set or custom ignition curves. Great idea, typically not reliable and there tend to be a lot of issues with some of the Dyna ignitions not accepting reprogrammed curves. Some are good some are bad. Buyer beware. Timing Plate: this is by far the most reliable way to change timing although it requires a little work. You can mod your stock timing plate to tilt clock wise a few degrees or buy an aftermarket plate. Lots of good stuff out there. Main decision is to decide whether you want Billit or cast. Billit is cheaper then hell now and totally worth it to pay the extra couple bucks. I have seen the cast come apart on stroker motors so I personally steer clear. The other plate options are the ones that stay fixed behind the flywheel but allow you to move your pick up with out messing with wrenches behind the flywheel. A plate will be the easiest and most reliable way to mess with timing. Lots of different plates for sale on the for sale section here. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee8zero2 Posted January 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 How do I get to the last one to adjust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 When you install it you set it to the desired amount using the markings on the plate it self. Then line up the setting you choose to the line created by the case halves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee8zero2 Posted January 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WINDYCITYJOHN400 Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 The 4 degree keys are fine. If your counting on the key to hold the flywheel....then your doing it wrong. If you key breaks the the flywheel wasn't properly seated and tightened. I like the billet model timing plates that adjust by moving the flywheel pickup without rotating the whole plate. MUCH easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 The 4 degree keys are fine. If your counting on the key to hold the flywheel....then your doing it wrong. If you key breaks the the flywheel wasn't properly seated and tightened. I like the billet model timing plates that adjust by moving the flywheel pickup without rotating the whole plate. MUCH easier. I disagree 100%. Timing keys are junk and a half ass way to adjust timing. They're far more prone to shearing due simply to the offset in the key. I can't believe you'd even recommend them honestly. Timing plates are like $35. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskool Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 Ran a degree key for a while with no problems, I have a billet plate now for peace of mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The-Association Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 Yea just get the plate and be done with it.. Pretty much the same amount of work.. USE LOCKTITE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 fuck the key's... if your on gas you can recut the OEM plate to get about 4 degree's out of it. and that mod costs 0 bucks... ( as long as your not retarded or ignorant OR dont have a die grinder)... the billet ones are sweet. BUT if you dont feel comfortable removing your flywheel and reinstalling your stator you probably shouldn't try and install this. rember blue locktight EVERYTHING i have ran combo's of dyna and plate also.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kshoulde35 Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 LOL i remember first time installing adjustable timing plate... I didn't put locktight on anything... needless to say cost me two stators and ended up selling the bike soon there after... learned a lesson on attention to detail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zillaguy Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 I rec. not using Loc-Tite... If you properly torque the screws that hold the stator assy. to the plate they won't come loose... I have a screw driver torque wrench, I set it at 18in/lbs and tighten them... i have never had them come loose... Mattoon Machine has a good deal on billet plates, thats where I got mine... Screw that degree key, what a piece of junk.... They used to use those on older Mercedes engines to get the cams degreed to the cranks properly, they made like 8 different off-sets... When you turbo the engines, they would shear those keys off and destroy $10,000+ engines all the time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02_twin Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 The 4 degree keys are fine. If your counting on the key to hold the flywheel....then your doing it wrong. If you key breaks the the flywheel wasn't properly seated and tightened... I'm inclined to agree with this. It takes a pretty good knock with an impact wrench on a puller to even get the magneto off the shaft. I can't see vibration and thermal expansion overcoming that grip plus the strength of the key. Especially when the bolt prevents it from moving back off the taper. The timing key isn't meant to carry a load, it is meant to do just what it does, set position. The taper carries the load. Mainly, the only load on the timing key is that of the magnetic field of the magnets running over the stator poles. Once the magneto begins to rotate it acts like a flywheel. Meaning its inertia tends to drive itself rather than needing some force to move it. Hence the train of thought behind lightening them for quicker response. Also there is a difference between a woodruff key and a keyway. If it were meant to bear load it would be more like the key for the crank gear. Which is an actual keyway. My 2¢ (if its worth that much) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigweav81 Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 FFS....NOW YOUR GUNNA AGREE WITH WINDY!?! Who are you anyway? got a shady profile, dont say nothin about ya, you been kicked outta here before? I tend not to trust people who have a bare bone profile, looks sketchy and like you got something to hide. Probably the almighty joshuamstevens.........or whatever the Fuck his name was. sent from yo mammy house Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmare Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 Windy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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