trickedcarbine Posted February 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 if you use a billet 10 mill crank it will deff break. i don't care what anyone says its well known that billet crankshafts break all the time. forged is the way to go if you want reliability. and i mean like 4-8 years on a crank reliability. Thats weird?? Not saying your wrong by any means.. Just the first time i have ever heard that. I was under the assumption that billet cranks were the superior crank of choice?? Same here. I have heard of Billit cranks breaking but they were in motors bound for destructive glory! I would've thought a twister 4mm would outlast a HotRods any day. I'm still learning the aftermarket crank stuff though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 The only cranks I have ever seen break is billet 10 mil,I've seen them snap at the cheek flywheel side twice,rods bend,and them blow out the bottom of cases.i also question these people's assembly and tuning could be just poor mechanical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulie B Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 who says a 10 mill wont last?? i hot lap the SHIT out of my 535.. it is on alky BUT i'm sure on gas it would be just fine.. those guys you race that just blow off their tires have frame setup issues. its not up to the builders to set up the chassis. i have had to tell guys that i did cr500 kart motors that they need to get it to the ground. i just gave them the ability to overpower the track if they feel necessary.. if you use a billet 10 mill crank it will deff break. i don't care what anyone says its well known that billet crankshafts break all the time. forged is the way to go if you want reliability. and i mean like 4-8 years on a crank reliability. if it was me i'd consider a pv cheetah. but thats just me. if done right you would have the bottom end you would need and the top end if you were on larger tracks. you could also adjust the pv's for different tracks and conditions. next choice would be a 10 mill super serval cub with correct head ( and porting).. if your "class" dosent have a cc need then.... Or just a super cub 520.. BUT no matter what your going to be right back in the same boat as them friends of yours and blowing your tires off.... if you built a lowerhp motor its much easier to control and a lot of times having a bike that you can control will always get you a win in any kind of circle or MX racing.. and all that involves a LOT more than just a motor.... I might be gettin with you at some point on the 10mil super serve. I mean I already got the bottom end and the head sealing issues with my 68mm top. It looks like my re-sleeved Vitos MIGHT not work out because the lack of pistons. Sorry trickedcarbide for intruding! PS no CAM didn't say that I did lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted February 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 Not intruding at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2004LEBanshee Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 I was told from a very common builder on here that he only wanted to build me a 10 mill if it had a billet crank. Just said with 10's it was the safest way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
special06shee Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 I guess no matter of any part there is away a HUGE CHANCE OF FAILURE when pushing these engines to the limits!! Sorry, i was not trying to jack this thread! Just caught me off guard when i read billets are more or less junk! I guess luck plays a big role in anything! Hope luck is on my side:-)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 It's not necessarily that billet is junk, it's that they will break too. The billet crank in my 18 DM broke after one year of riding and I hardly rode the thing. It happens. I fixed it and moved on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 What pipes you plan on using IF you get this sorted out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frog Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 I have been dune riding and trail riding my dune ported 465 cub(10 mil) now for 4 years now. I have a TDR forged crank($800.00). I cruise with my two kids who also have banshee's a 421 cub(dune ported HJR) and a dune ported stock cylinders with a 4mil crank from HJR. If you mix your gas with good oil (klotz) and are jetted correctly and built by some one who knows what they are doing the motor will last. Did I also mention I'm 42 and my son is 17 and daughter is 15.We go out riding almost every weekend and never had a failure. Again my bike is up and down on the throttle trying to keep up with the kids. So trust me when i say 10 mil cranks will last.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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