trickedcarbine Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 2 things. First i think your both wrong about cp. They are the ones with the most info on these cylinders as they designed them. Second ive been looking over my dimensions sheet on the 10 dm and comparing it to other cp cylinder specs i have compiled. It seems that if you deck the bottom of the cylinder your going to either have to tall of an exh port leading to high durations or at bdc the crown will be above the exh and transfer port floors. Are these the specs on Calvin's web site? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lms1977 Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Naturally a decked down cly should not hit as hard think of a serval vs a cub.. but the heat will probably be more the issue I would think.. What kinda power do you make now? And how much power do you plan on making with the dm? I bet if your realistic with yourself and say that a good running one just say makes 120hp and your ok with 100-110hp I bet it could be done. You will probably have to give up 10% of power to get what you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Exactley where I'm coming from LMS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 A 4DM on gas isn't making 120HP. If you want to start out at 125, you better go with a 10DM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 A 4DM on gas isn't making 120HP. If you want to start out at 125, you better go with a 10DM. Kim told me I should expect about 115-120+ on gas. Not saying you're wrong Tyler, but just what I heard Maybe with a set of out-frames on it, maybe. Cameron's 10DM on gas for the kid up north made 125 with the same type of in frame set up I run. Big stinger tube, no silencers. I would assume trickedcarbine isn't going to run out-frames for circle track and I doubt he wants his bike as loud as ours. Losing a good amount of power right off the start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m671054 Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Are these the specs on Calvin's web site? some are and some are from builds ive had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Cooling? Are you not running this at a high rate of speed in frigid temps? With that much air movement and with the temp differential so high, there's no way you can convince me that with a good radiator there's going to be heat issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Cooling? Are you not running this at a high rate of speed in frigid temps? With that much air movement and with the temp differential so high, there's no way you can convince me that with a good radiator there's going to be heat issues.Good to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Maybe with a set of out-frames on it, maybe. Cameron's 10DM on gas for the kid up north made 125 with the same type of in frame set up I run. Big stinger tube, no silencers. I would assume trickedcarbine isn't going to run out-frames for circle track and I doubt he wants his bike as loud as ours. Losing a good amount of power right off the start. I certainly agree that a DM on gas could not produce 120+ HP. All of the sheets I've seen for them have been about 110 on race fuel. It also hade custom shearer inframes. I'd be happy with 100+ and a solid torque curve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ric-ross1 Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Maybe with a set of out-frames on it, maybe. Cameron's 10DM on gas for the kid up north made 125 with the same type of in frame set up I run. Big stinger tube, no silencers. I would assume trickedcarbine isn't going to run out-frames for circle track and I doubt he wants his bike as loud as ours. Losing a good amount of power right off the start. Might ask you couple questions down the road about DM, thinking about building one since everyone here has a 4mil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshb Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 You could save yourself the money but the one that's for sale ^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted February 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 The McCoy 550 is already set up for a different purpose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 who says a 10 mill wont last?? i hot lap the SHIT out of my 535.. it is on alky BUT i'm sure on gas it would be just fine.. those guys you race that just blow off their tires have frame setup issues. its not up to the builders to set up the chassis. i have had to tell guys that i did cr500 kart motors that they need to get it to the ground. i just gave them the ability to overpower the track if they feel necessary.. if you use a billet 10 mill crank it will deff break. i don't care what anyone says its well known that billet crankshafts break all the time. forged is the way to go if you want reliability. and i mean like 4-8 years on a crank reliability. if it was me i'd consider a pv cheetah. but thats just me. if done right you would have the bottom end you would need and the top end if you were on larger tracks. you could also adjust the pv's for different tracks and conditions. next choice would be a 10 mill super serval cub with correct head ( and porting).. if your "class" dosent have a cc need then.... Or just a super cub 520.. BUT no matter what your going to be right back in the same boat as them friends of yours and blowing your tires off.... if you built a lowerhp motor its much easier to control and a lot of times having a bike that you can control will always get you a win in any kind of circle or MX racing.. and all that involves a LOT more than just a motor.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted February 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 Those were my exact choices from the get go Cam. First was a 485 cheetah, then a 10mm serval for simplicity yet super reliable result. Once I spoke with builders on the bigger stroke motors they were weary of how reliable it would be for my type of racing. I'm not a builder, but if two or three of the top names tell me the same thing, it over rules my decision for sure. As far as your comment on over powering the track, I'm not sure where that comes from. Never been an issue for me. I'm pretty in touch with chassis set up and I get that it is my part to make sure it is set up properly. But that doesn't mean you can go sticking a drag motor in a short track bike and just rev it to the moon all day....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
special06shee Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 if you use a billet 10 mill crank it will deff break. i don't care what anyone says its well known that billet crankshafts break all the time. forged is the way to go if you want reliability. and i mean like 4-8 years on a crank reliability. Thats weird?? Not saying your wrong by any means.. Just the first time i have ever heard that. I was under the assumption that billet cranks were the superior crank of choice?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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