BeeCanBanshee Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 My 2-1 was very touchy. If I didn't run it at those jets it ran like Shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted January 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 I looked today and I have an EEK needle that I could put in it. I have a 190 main too. I still have a few things that I need to do before I can fire it up again. I have no where to ride it so all I can do it dial in the pilot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted January 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 Correction I have a EEG needle, should be close, just a different taper I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted January 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 Correction, not a different taper. Just brushed up on my needle conversations. EEK has a slightly larger diameter then EEG. The EEG will be a tough more rich then a EEK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted January 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 I was contemplating where I should start with the clip position. I was thinking the second from the top due to the fact that its a EEG and not an EEK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted January 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 I took care of my coolant leak like suggested, great idea, thanks! Still waiting on a couple more hundred of parts before I can start it again. Plus its super cold here, probably wait for some warmer weather. Doesn't it only take a 10 degree change to change one jet size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 I got my clutch case bolt holes helicoiled and replaced my kick gear spring. Old one was worn out. I cured my coolant leak coming from the head nuts. I pulled the needle and popped in the EEG on the second clip. It still has a run away rpm after you crack the throttle a little harder. The idle is funky too. I tried to get it to idle but it keeps going from a low idle to a higher idle back and forth every 5 seconds or so. Playing with the air screw and idle screw didn't really do anything. I need to do a leak down test next when I have time. I ran out of time for today. Remind me again how to determine the pilot size. I had to go 3 1/2 turns out before I noticed an idle change. I have a 60 pilot in there. So do I need to up or down, I forget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted January 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 I got some time tonight to work on the bike. I bought a couple of universal freeze plug to block off the exhaust. They work great BTW. Installed the leak tester and it wouldn't hold anything. I found several leaks by the bolts holes on the manifold. Some of the slotting that it takes to get it to fit goes past the gasket surface. So for now I took it all apart and coating everything with Yamabond. I put my heater on it for an hour and re tested. Got to 4 psi and it pissed. I'm gonna let it sit overnight and re test tomorrow. Anyone know of a larger gasket that will fix this problem if the silicone doesn't hold? I also did a compression test with the blocked exhaust. I got 180psi on both. 130 unblocked exhaust. That is a little high for my tastes. My blaster runs 120/160 compression and I have had no detonation problems even when run 87 non reformulated fuel thats only available in some areas. I swapped out the 20cc's for the 22's. Now I get 165psi blocked exhaust. I will probably be around 120-125 unblocked. I will do a unblocked check after the exhaust plugs are out. One more strange thing. The left hand plug was clean as a whistle. However they was smoke coming out of both pipes when I had it running for a couple mins. I checked for spark on the wire and they were good. Hoping it has something to do with the massive air leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 HMM when i first read this it sounded like an air leak for sure. thank GOD you didnt put a 42 or whatever in it and try that holy crap it would have blown sky hi sounds like you found the leak. if you cannot fix it with paper gaskets you need to replace whatever it is that screwed up,, intake,, reeds whatever it is. if it wont hold 6psi at least you will NEVER get it to run worth a crap... why are you doing a blocked comp test??? an ENGINE will natually show a crazy high comp numbers if the exhaust is blocked off.. where does that pressure have to go?? no where. you need to rely on your engine all together throttle open comp numbers. and even then the dome shape will make all the difference in the way it runs and what fuel it will handle... a 22cc dome with 18mm band at .25tho clearance will blow up no matter what.... but still kick a low comp number.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted January 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Define 18mm band. When you say .25 clearance are you referring to squish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted January 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 I got it to hold 7psi now on the leak test. Started her up and no more rpm runaway. The idle is constant now. Big improvement. I ran it three heat cycles again. I just got my 05 rear carrier today. So I will be installing new bearings and seals and painting it black to match the swing arm. I'm still waiting on my +4 axle. It should of been here by now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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