Jump to content

re-sleeve aftermarket jugs?


Paulie B

Recommended Posts

It's a price thing. Johns gonna re-sleeve these at about 1/2 the price of buying new jugs. He gonna put in custom sleeves any timing I want. Now I have some homework to do on what 'perfect' agressive trail port timing would be. Were gonna keep it at 68mm's so I can still use my old pistons.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Imo selling your cyl for a few hundred, hen putting a few hundred on top to just get a serval would be a better option.. just by sleeving the cyl and dropping the ports will it ever run right cause the exhaust port roof will loose its shape and have a hard step going downward??

Maybe I'm looking at it wrong..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im not sure what custon blank sleeves are but doesnt sound like what you need. i cant imagine anyone being able to design a sleeve "one off" and it be cost effective. is he going to get a "blank" sleeve cut the ports into himself, getting all the heights and angles correct? or draw up the heights and angles send a blueprint to advanced sleeve or northwest sleeve?

 

 the sleeves that vito sells for that cylinder are designed for that cylinder. the vito sleeves will start at 66mm so you get many more bores (4 min.) then starting back at 68mm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Imo selling your cyl for a few hundred, hen putting a few hundred on top to just get a serval would be a better option.. just by sleeving the cyl and dropping the ports will it ever run right cause the exhaust port roof will loose its shape and have a hard step going downward?? Maybe I'm looking at it wrong..

Aw man this guy has been doin it for 40 years lol. I talked to him a bunch of times already and he seem excited to do it. To back out now would almost be a dick move.

About the exhaust port roof. He seems to think since the exhaust is pointing downward and he is installing a big sleeve that porting the sleeve to match the exhaust isn't going to be a problem even with the lowered timing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im not sure what custon blank sleeves are but doesnt sound like what you need. i cant imagine anyone being able to design a sleeve "one off" and it be cost effective. is he going to get a "blank" sleeve cut the ports into himself, getting all the heights and angles correct? or draw up the heights and angles send a blueprint to advanced sleeve or northwest sleeve?

 

 the sleeves that vito sells for that cylinder are designed for that cylinder. the vito sleeves will start at 66mm so you get many more bores (4 min.) then starting back at 68mm.

I have no idea where he gets his sleeves from but yes he will blueprint and cut the ports himself I've seen it. I don't really want to step on someones toes and discuss pricing but it's a very good 'friend' price sir. Last time we talked I completely forgot to bring up those Vitos sleeves. What port timing do they come with? I wouldn't have a problem going that route and it seems like it would save the man alot of time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

187ish is where my old big bore trail motor was at. Remember with the added CC's you can keep the exhaust up a bit more because the displacement will carry it down low. Also, before you go doing this..... I suggest a stock machined head or one of the single piece heads to keep the big bore sealed up. That or set up at 66mm. Big bores are a fucking cunt to keep sealed up unless they are designed for a totally different head. I will personally never in my life build another big bore motor in the stock head stud pattern. Never! I rebuilt it 3 times a season and every time it was coolant leaking in the cylinder related. Let's just say that coolant is not very good two stroke lube.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You speak the truth. A while back I posted a thread on here about my shee massively overheating out of the blue one day. I checked eveything and now I believe my stock head was leaking just enough over time to boil it over. Fuk man now I don't know what to do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, it had plenty of compression.

 

You could just keep it simple and set it up with the 66mm.

 

But, if it were me, I'd go for the 68mm+ set up. It will take more work but be worth it. You need to make sure the deck is prepped and true. Machine the cylinders and ONE piece head for O-rings like you see on the race cars. Maybe even give TDR a call for their one piece girdle head.

 

I did finally get mine to stay sealed up with a stock head machined head and a Special TDR Big Bore gasket with metallic compression rings in it. But if I ever touch those cylinders again I'm doing the metallic o rings

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...