- New owner - One Cylinder Weak Spark -

[KozyHeat]

Hey I'm new on this site. Site looks great, its well organized, and congrats on 1 mil posts.

 

 

Anyway - real reason why I'm here...

I just purchased this Banshee.

 

Supposedly an 89

 

 

Stock pipes, aftermarket air filter, aftermarket / different plastics ( maier plastics, 'ceet cover' )

 

So I purchased it knowing it needed work. The guy thinks the one cylinder is bad.

However I do not think this is the case! I have not removed the exhaust to check for scoring. I will do a compression check tomorrow - but I like getting input from people online because you guys usually have some great ideas because your way more experienced with the unique systems of Yamahas Banshee platform.

 

So my experiences with small cc toys lead me to believe the first thing I should do is get spark. It was non-existent at first.

 

Symptom definition: starts in one kick, just doesn't rev out correctly / quickly. Weak spark on one side. Lots of smoke

 

--if you care to read what I have been dealing with for an hour or so --

10 minutes went by. I knew unplugging the key switch & kill switch could be a fix. No bueno. another 5-10min I was jumping the key switch wiring. Then I find a ground by the front right headlight disconnected. Then I have read up on this T.O.R.S system. So I unplug those - screw around. I go to kick and I get spark. So I call my friends and let them know ( they were just with me when I picked it up ) and the next time I go to kick it - NO SPARK! Disappointing. Poking around another 15min I rigged the Tors system incorrectly and I tried fumbling with the CDI box ( came with another one )

Previous owner replaced the flywheels coil setup but he doesn't seem too competent - even though somebody used a bunch of dielectric grease on the connectors ( I like that stuff )

with more Tors bypassing & ignition jumping I got spark I noticed one lead / plug was getting lesser spark.

Checked the carburetor tops - the one was loose

Anyway I slapped the tank back on and drover er around!

Both lights work ( brake light doesn't - probably bulb)

 

Pulls really slowly ( sprocket set is 14/42 - stock )

I noticed on the cyl with the weak spark that the rubber upper pipe mount is kinda wired together ( will fix that tomorrow ) so that could cause some problems.

 

There is just tons of smoke coming out of the silencers ( stock pipes / silencers )

I checked the fuel before I ran it. Its red/ pink colored oil!>!!?? amsoil ?

I never did unplug the TORS box next to the ignition coil !

 

I could check the pickup gap on the flywheel as well! never did.

 

 

Cliffs:

New banshee!

Smokes like crazy!!!

One side has weak spark, also had loose carb cap, bad exhaust mount causing a small leak

compression check tomorrow and carburetor cleaning / adjustment

previous owner has strong / weak points in his methods ( stripped screws grr )

PO replaced coil assembly, put an aftermarket air filter on.

Wiring is kind of taped up here and there.

2 cdi boxes. That both produce same weak spark on one side.

 

Going to swap another ignition coil from my friends Shee tomorrow as well.

Resistor or non resistor plugs. What about spark plug wire ends? non-resistor?

 

 

Place your bets people?! Whats wrong here!

 

If I don't have to do any motor work - I'm doing good here.

[n2otoofast4u]

BEST NEWB POST EVER.... You are on the right track. By the looks of it, Id get your vitals figured out so you know it CAN run then pull it totaly apart and make sure there arent lurking problems in other places..

[sheerider11]

Unplug that tors box. The banshee started using brake lights way later. You don't have one. Good to see you did reading before asking. Trim the wires for the plugs. Check your pick up gap at the coil. Check the 2 wires on the coil as well. Check all grounds.

[KozyHeat]

BEST NEWB POST EVER.... You are on the right track. By the looks of it, Id get your vitals figured out so you know it CAN run then pull it totaly apart and make sure there arent lurking problems in other places..

Thanks - I had to be pleasant. I have seen new users crushed by forum members for no reason.

I am impressed with the aftermarket support of these banshees and the documentation ( I found the digital toolkit, and user manuals )

 

I thought about splitting the cases and making sure everything is a top but I am likely going to sell it when the weather gets warm.

 

Unplug that tors box. The banshee started using brake lights way later. You don't have one. Good to see you did reading before asking. Trim the wires for the plugs. Check your pick up gap at the coil. Check the 2 wires on the coil as well. Check all grounds.

Tors box - need to unplug

No brake triggers - yeah your right!

I will trim the plug wires! Plenty of wire left.

Pickup gap is on the list and swapping coil.

I realize I should've inspected the grounds now. Tomorrow! Sweet!

 

My most favorite part is the white Maier plastics because they are new and have a criss cross pattern of gray and looks super slick. Doesn't really match though. ( front springs + headlights are red )

Edited November 24, 2012 by KozyHeat

[KozyHeat]

so I was excited today. Ran out to the garage and immediately tossed the shee outside. First things first - disconnect the tors box, and swap the mismatched plugs. Cut back the wires and dielectric greased both ends of the boots. I have photos of it all but I didn't have time to upload em before I left.

 

so I go to start it with the tank back on - boom one kick. Go warm It up, go hammer on it - no bueno. Still acting the same.

 

Then I go to one of my many awesome neighbors. I pull up to his garage and notice his lights are on inside. Walk in and he's working on a parts car. Dropping a motor. I explain my case and show him the new purchase. He lets me bring er inside and used his compresion tester.

 

kinda guessing on how to use it. I thread in the tester by hand. It has a black oring on the 14mm plug end. I rig up the throttle wide open and kick away.

 

results?

63 psi left

76 psi right

 

hardly what I wanted to see. Does the compression testers 10" cord throw the compression lower? Should I have tightened the tester down more? I didn't feel air leaking.

 

then I ran back home and fixed the rubber mount. Then parked it inside for the night.

 

oah yeah - I tested my antifreeze - good to 36 below.

[KozyHeat]

heh I'm over in the south end of MN.

 

as far as pipes. I'm thinking of keeping the banshee stock. No sense in moding it imho as I may sell it.

 

Tires I'm not attached to. They are unpractical in my area.. Fronts have to be new - they have sick tread. The rears have about 1/8 tread maybe more. I think I could wrap em in plastic shipping shrinkwrap to ship em though. $12/tire to ship maybe? The rears don't hold air for some reason.

 

make some offers. If there is dollars to be made i'll do it.

[KozyHeat]

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/1832/2compressionright.jpg

76 psi

http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/8288/4compressionleft.jpg

69 psi

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/825/1boot.jpg

greased the boots ;P not worth the picture you say?

http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/5884/3compressionthrottle.jpg

Im missing a throttle cover!

 

I need a bunch of hardware for this Banshee. Does anyone have a list of all the hardware needed + lengths? replace all of it with allen wrenches or something?

[KozyHeat]

double because forum lets you edit 10min posts

 

69 psi ( left )

77 psi ( right )

Im missing a throttle cover! here is how I rigged the throttle for a WOT compression test

 

not worth a picture, but eah maybe you've never seen the inside of a boot!

 

 

I need a bunch of hardware for this Banshee. Does anyone have a list of all the hardware needed + lengths? re

 

place all of it with allen wrenches or something?

"""

[Finch]

were the threads on the comp tester about the same length as threads on the spark plug. that is pretty low comp.specially depending on your elevation. I believe at sea level you want around 120 on a stock motor and im at 5000ft a good stock topend gets about 100

[KozyHeat]

they appeared to be a tiny bit shorter than a b9es 14mm plug thread. Then the hose was long like I mentioned. For now I guess I'll just pretend the motor is perfect and i'll move onto the flywheel trigger gap, silencer removal, swapping coils etc. The wiring is kinda sketchy.

 

thanks for the idea though. I thought it would be around 120-160psi - does psi effect afr? I can't imagine you can get the right mix with no air cmpressed.

 

something happened yesterday also -- the killswitch didn't work. I have the keyswitch disconnected,but I went to kill it after maybe a minute of running and it didn't die.

 

//edit roflcopter. Missing the dang choke tube between the carbies!!!

 

killswitch is still not working

[Finch]

if ya dont have hose bewteen the carbs it wont run right at all comp that low im surprised it starts. but if they are shorter it wil read about 10 psi lower. and why are you running with b9s? a stock motor should use br8es

[mmoosemn01]

shits toast ! rebuild topend !start from over

[KozyHeat]

So today I did some more troubleshooting.

 

Started by removing the silencers. Boyo that is LOUD. Also spits black stuff all over my pants.

 

No change

 

Then went on to swapping out to my friends working Ign coil.

 

No change

 

Killswitch still didn't work

 

 

Then pulled the flywheel sidecover off and started to pull the flywheel when I realized the pickup was right under the flywheel, doh. There is the timing, just retarded one degree.

 

 

 

 

Also found the choke tube was missing, so I quickly cut a 2 5/8 inch piece of fuel line

 

 

Cracked into the killswitch piece and fixed that by cleaning it up ??? Don't know, it just works now.

 

Go the rear running light working, swapped cdi box.

 

Went out for a ride...

 

Ran really well, pulled super quick through all the gears and by the time I got down to the end of the street...

 

out of gas!

Pushed it home, filled it up with cheap gas mixed at ~40:1, and went out for another drive -- HOPING i had it fixed.

 

Little did I know I was wrong.

 

I went out on a longer ride ( perhaps 2.5 miles ) lots of WOT and blipping.

 

There is a throttle delay when it is winding down, it takes a second to catch up. Top end sounds pretty nice. Low end is weak.

 

But still not running the best.

 

 

End of the day - Threw some plastics on for the night.

 

Tomorrow - Carburetors. I did observe the throttle play / sync previously but now I will check the jets and needles, idle jets, clean it all up etc.

 

I don't understand those little eye-holes for the slides though. They don't tell me any information really? hard to even see em.

Edited November 26, 2012 by KozyHeat

[KozyHeat]

if ya dont have hose bewteen the carbs it wont run right at all comp that low im surprised it starts. but if they are shorter it wil read about 10 psi lower. and why are you running with b9s? a stock motor should use br8es

 

Its all I had in short notice. Probably a little too cold of a heat range but Im going for two mile runs. Could it throw off everything that much? I should use a resistor plug even though the caps supposedly have built in resistors?

 

shits toast ! rebuild topend !start from over

I'd be fine with that IF that would 100% fix it!

 

Im prepared to buy oem overbore pistons / ringsets, bring them in for a bore and hone, new gaskets. Tiny bit of porting and make sure I chamfer the port edges, check ring gap, squish, etc. Throw in some aftermarket reeds possibly.

 

yep yep, It may come to that if the carbs don't fix it

[KozyHeat]

Elevation approx 1500ft didn't mean to ignore that! sorry.