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- New owner - One Cylinder Weak Spark -


KozyHeat

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I don't think the leakdown would've cought a leaking spark plug because it never weeped from the head until today. 

:Crybaby:  Are you serious dude? When you do the test and have a leak and doesn't hold pressure, you have to check EVERY possible place. Ya check the trans vent for leaking 3bond seal, they can leak @keyway/collar clutch side , oh did I mention they can leak at the spark plugs? O, but you already found that out. :banana:

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My carburetors were out of sync. I messed it up bad when I tried to get it to Idle earlier that day. I did not realize how critical the sync is!

 

 

In either case - to loose a motor over something so simple as a leakdown test would be silly. I have to do them now when I assemble a motor.

 

Probably be a few months before I throw it all together.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Its messed up pretty bad.

Did leakdown today - None noted along the case or crank seals or bolts or base or head. In the beginning the spark plug leaked on the right side ( opposite of the blown one ) but I tightened that ( it was a used plug ). Had it up to 60psi by accident ( unfamiliar automotive cylinder leak  tester ) - SHOT out my 1/2in pvc cap :) Scary! Better that then the metal Expansion plug. That would be like a bullet.

 

Tore down the motor

 

caseq.jpg

 

Heads messed up a little

lefthd.jpg

righthe.jpg

Cylinder is really good for how much metal was in there. I will clean up on the next overbore.

cylinderl.jpg

 

 

I checked the lower bearings for play when I installed them last time. They didnt move forward and back. Only side to side. Used a flashlight and I couldn't see any rust or anything like that.

 

How did I break my lower bearing? Spinning the motor too fast with my small tires?
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This could not have been more easy...

 

 

workspacew.jpg
your love is a verb Here in my room
cleanedup.jpg
this side is fine lookin'
removemore.jpg
Not done yet. Just remove the 2 screws from the bearing retainer on the clutch shaft! Thats it! Dont mess with anything else. I removed the lower stuff because I will mod it, and soak my cases so they can be shot with some paint.
splite.jpg
splitmess.jpg
oah well, its done its  done
askingforit.jpg
WOWWWW
That needs to be MATCHED soooo badly.
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What would you do? used crank ? or 2 x $55 magnum connecting rod kits on my stock crank ? Could be welded too if you guys deem it. That is option one. 

Another option is to go for a +4 that includes crank + piston set as one assembly

Also many in-between options as well.

 

My crank pin washer left some HUGE chunks. one is an inch long :\

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I am getting ready for some case cleanup.

I haven't done this before but check it out.

 

cuttrace.jpg
leftjz.jpg
 

The paper template is a replica of my cylinder mating surface. the black is what I could potentially take out on the cylinder as well as the case. I still need to lay it on my case and mark it but I was just wondering about the transfers because I have seen them opened up before on other machines - but specifically not on the Banshee.

 

I don't know the specific requirements for a gasket and how much mating surface it must have to fully seal without leaking for the base but I just picked the smallest part (approx 3.88mm) and rounded it up a tiny bit to an easy 4mm. Then I traced that around the gasket outer edge 4mm carefully.I like it but I just don't know for sure yet if I will remove that metal from my cylinder & case. There isn't any stud holes/case holes to hit if I do that.

 

There is room - Any advice against hogging it out a bit more?

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