Finch Posted November 26, 2012 Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 ya your comp should be alot higher imo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted November 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 (edited) Maybe the previous owner modified the carbs to get it to run right. Far from stock. ( e.g. threw in richer components / main jet etc. ) Im going to go disassemble them right now. Otherwise Its time to tear it down tomorrow and order some parts! Be back with photos of the process Edited November 26, 2012 by KozyHeat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted November 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 Start by removing your seat Then remove your tank Then remove the caps off the carburetors Then remove the hose clamps and I removed the joints between the airbox and the carbs to make removal less stressful on the intake boots. Pull em out. I stored my parts in the airbox Finally you have a carb to play with, here is the left side Carburetor splayed out partially. Check your plastic floats, wire out and use compressed air or bicycle pump to blow out all passages. Be nice to your gaskets/rubber/viton products against cleaner left jet #200 Float setting slide holes? Also noticed this pickup tube thing circle was smushed by the jet at one point, if you tried to tighten the jet against this it would probably be spaced further away from the emulsion tube. I filed it out a tiny bit with a file to smooth the bump there. Look for shady stuff like that when messing with carbs. Here is a pictures of my reedblocks - they look like they are sealing - I didn't check if all the pedals moved. //random I want some white /blue /black headlights and blacked out front springs. Then It would be looking sick. Verified through the vin that the frame is an `89 Yep, I have to pull the top end. There is not much else to troubleshoot at this point! Bummer! Ill check to see if I have a weaker spark on one cylinder tomorrow though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted November 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 (edited) I removed the left pipe today. Skirt has some shiny/wear on it but no deep gouges like I thought. The whole cylinder didn't look bad. MAYBE one distinct line in it. Rings looked like they were chrome ( shiny ) I shook the pipe out and nothing came out - I was expecting it to be filled with fuel or something. I took the banshee for a run today with a camera. If I can get to some good internet maybe I can upload it to the tube and see what you guys think. In the video Im either WOT or let off. You can hear when it works sometimes and other times it just four-strokes. I can still swap plugs to a br8es plug. but other than that - I'm stumped - pulling cylinders near in my future. Oah on my slides - are they on backwards? Do those little holes in the slides line up with the windows? I lined up the thin notch with what is inside the carburetor. If the TORS caps were on backwards, would that mess it up? I know how to install slides into carburetors, the long thin notch is for the slide guide, and the short notch is the idle screw. I think I followed that rule and installed them but maybe they should be on opposite sides so that the circles in the slides match up with the eyelets. The slides make a significant difference in fuel mixture. Ill check that next as well. also check for airleaks still. There is a company that offers these slide clips that modify the flow of air and supposedly increase performance. Edited November 26, 2012 by KozyHeat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunesovertrails Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Damn you know your stuff.... I got some black headlights if you want... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=160555&hl=headlights... I'd like to get 40 but negotiable and the crack really doesnt affect anything except it moves a little if you push on it with your fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 rebuild the motor. you can screw with all the external stuff all you want. its not going to run better.. yank it split it redo everything inside. then take the good motor, and fix everything on the outside. your comp is way to low.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted November 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Damn you know your stuff.... I got some black headlights if you want... http://bansheehq.com...l=headlights... I'd like to get 40 but negotiable and the crack really doesnt affect anything except it moves a little if you push on it with your fingers. Thanks for the offer. Ill go check how hard it would be to fix that tab that is broken like you mentioned. I don't know that much -- especially about this Yamaha. I'm asking an awful lot of questions. rebuild the motor. you can screw with all the external stuff all you want. its not going to run better.. yank it split it redo everything inside. then take the good motor, and fix everything on the outside. your comp is way to low.. Yeah, your right camatv but why should I split the case? What would YOU replace in the internals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Thanks for the offer. Ill go check how hard it would be to fix that tab that is broken like you mentioned. I don't know that much -- especially about this Yamaha. I'm asking an awful lot of questions. Yeah, your right camatv but why should I split the case? What would YOU replace in the internals? Just split the cases to replace the seals, take a look for anything out of the ordinary. You may see that the crank is separating and you caught it just in time. You never know. I rip apart any bike I get, I don't trust anyone else that I can't speak for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted November 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 (edited) Yeah, I like doing crank seals. If I am at that point I might as well replace the bearings too I suppose. Edited November 27, 2012 by KozyHeat 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finch Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 ya you have to split the cases to do seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted November 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 ^ heh yeah, I ninja-edited my post after I found out that the seals have a groove in them so they don't get installed incorrectly. I would just use seal without a lip... Do I need somebody to press out the center pin of the crank to install new bearings & seals in the middle of the crank ? Ugh I should go pull the motor now ~_~;; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Take it apart then decide if it needs bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted November 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 The front suspension + frame + bumper has rust in spots (Hardly damaging structurally ) Would removing that bring buyer value? Or for the time ( cost isn't really a problem ) am I better off leaving it for if I sell it? ( e.g. I would be hand sandblasting where applicable & painting frame and suspension components the same color, as long as its done carefully and not sloppily - Along with replacing j arm bushings, pulling & cleaning the motor, other various bushings bearings seals( front wheel, rear carrier, pivot ) I guess I am unsure as to what people look for in a quad. This is really old so that already doesn't help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted November 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 (edited) So I tore it down today - it started to foul my plugs out. Right pipe had some liquid in it, ewww. Here is a mess of photos... ... Left side stuff ^ right side stuff ___________________ How it sits now. I checked the connecting rod ends for vertical play - None. Boy those wristpins slide from side to side a lot. I might end up Honing the cylinders & re-ringing the pistons and running them like that - cheap way out but for my riding style it will be fine. I go blast for 10-15min at a time, then I shut er down. I dont ride for hours. Edited November 28, 2012 by KozyHeat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted November 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 pistons are Wiseco Pro-lite .50mm overbores. That's okay ews. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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