KozyHeat Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Oah! Duh! That is what that is for. Thank you! Ill throw that in the budget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 Just an FYI, you have to remove the clutch cover to remove that brass vent piece. Support the cover on a piece of pipe and pound it out. Apparently some people have busted a chunk out of the cover by just pounding on it, unsupported. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted December 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 No pictures but the motors back in and ready for tomorrows cylinder transplant ( if the parts do show up ) I started to blast the frame but as soon as I did of course my blaster started shooting moisture with the sand, rendering the gun ineffective. So I did a small strip and shot some 'self etching primer' (yucky puke color ) and yeah, put the motor back in. I'm just going to run the minimum stuff I need to test the new setup. If it runs like with no power still - Its either reeds/intake, carburetor, or Electrical --which is fine. But if it does run well. I will tear it all down and get the frame + suspension blasted and I'll paint it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted December 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 Hey Guys. Got my parts late today so I am assembling now. I am taking forever putting this together because I want to do it correctly. I got a problem though -- my rings as is sitting in the bore are sitting at .021" on the left cylinder. I want .004" per inch for the top ring gap, and .005" per inch of gap for bottom ring . My bore is approx 64.50mm ( 2.539 " ) So if I multiply the bore in inches by the ring gap I want .010 for the top .012 for the bottom Im already at .021 in for the top and bottom ring - No filing needed ? Or get a new ringset? Did the previous owner install too small of pistons? my bore is 64.53 mm, and these pistons are 64.50 pistons from wiseco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted December 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 Okay I was measuring too far down on the skirt. Measuring at the mating surface of the cylinder and the bottom end - Ring end gap is .017" Ill run the bottom ring at .019" Thanks for the help =[ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted December 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 90psi both cylinders ( never ran it yet ) Again the hose on the compression tester is 2 feet, probably 4 - 6 mm ID on it. So the compression tester isn't quite suited for low displacement vehicles :\ but yeah Once I run it, then once I break it in - should still show an increase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted December 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 My masssssive new parts section ;P spew everything all over What I am working with. Gaskets were oversized on the transfers. I used a hand file, the first came out bad, the second, came out well. I could easily case match that, maybe next time. It would flow so much better ALMOST DONE!!! So yeah I started to put everything back on now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted December 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 WOw wweee Up and running, and has low end power. Put everything back together. Lowered the needle down to the second richest setting for break in, since I don't got a bigger jet ( riding clean in my top tank targa lx ) I idled it for about 2 minutes, checked for airleaks then putted around with a few bursts. Its kinda early to be blasting through town, maybe not. Gotta let it cool, retorque everything, then check for airleaks again, then go go go go Banshee! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted December 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 I'm trying to figure out my low end bog. Since I raised the needle I hope it is that. I suppose moving the needle to the center clip would show me if that is it. I give it throttle, and immediately it hesitates, then it revs up just fine. I will still check for airleaks ( around the base, head, intakes, carb tops, exhaust ) Also - to get the banshee to Idle, I had to unscrew the adjuster all the way on the thumbthrottle so it would idle. I went from 1.5 turns on the Pilot air circuit to 1 turn, because it was in the 30's to 40's so I wanted it more rich than from the factory, but I really need a bigger jet I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Well turns out the bog is a carburetor issue I think. I noticed ( after a stinking long time ) Low end is suffering because the right carb is either getting too much or too little of fuel. There is a nasty low end bog, but once you hit 5k the powerband hits HARD, I accidentally pulled a wheelie today ;P Above 5k the right side uses its fuel supply, or atleast enough to clean up the plug. If I idle too much or do low speed crusing it fouls out a plug. My other problem could be electrical. I will swap plug wires and see if the problem moves, but I am pretty sure its my Float Valve Seat not closing the fuel up on the right side. Going to order a valve seat, or polish this one up with 'Chrome polish' and a q-tip ( i hear it works well! ) and it will hopefully mate with my new needle. I still have to figure out plans for finishing the Banshee. If anyone wishes to help me decide - I have mapped out 3 options for fixing this Banshee and I would like your input~ !!! lmk~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 So, you pressure tested the motor after you assembled it, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 no leakdown. Thought about it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted December 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 it's backfiring out the right side. It's got sparadic spark on the right side I think. But it doesn't make sense. How does only one side get bad spark? I tried switching spark plug wires. The right side if I slam it WOT and let off will make a big pop. Compression still 90 now too. I checked today. I was thinking. I suppose I could switch carburetors. Plug off the choke tubes with vaccuum caps and see if it moves to the left. my wirin is sketchy --but the ignition coil fires both times!? What gives? Right crank seal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Jesus tapdancing Christ on a busted crutch!! Do a leakdown test!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat_tony Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 when u check the compression how many times do you kick it ? or do you kick it till it stops rising ....when mine was stock it had 120 left and 122 right but i put a cool head on with 19 cc domes and now i get 150 psi with 4 kicks ....i usually stop there cause i cant run pump gas if its over that lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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