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school me on a dunable override


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I bought a 421 serval with a 1-5 Redline dunable override with a lockup. I was going to put this in my bike which I mostly trail ride (I guess that’s what to call it,or play, dune etc.). It only see’s duty in Waynoka. I’ve read 6 yrs worth of threads and talked with Cameron at Redline and have all but talked myself out of this trans. I realize it’s built for dragging,and I do plan to race, but my favorite thing to do is wheelie up and across the face of a dune. I’ve read where some of you say you’d never go back after having an override. Question is will this work for me? Or will I blow it up? Or, can someone here teach me how to use it properly? Any input from from those that have the same type of trans and ride Little Sahara type trails and dunes would be appreciated.

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If you have talked to Cameron I would suggest you go with what he said! He built it and he knows how it should be used so you already went to the best source for your info so what do you expect us to tell you that the guy that built it cant tell you? Unless you are drag racing for the most part a overide is not what you want to run unless you like changing shift forks!

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RUN IT! Worst that happens is you wreck the forks and flip the motor upside down and put a std tranny in it and a fork and your back in action knowing you've tried it. I persoanly think that if your atleast reasonably mindful about what your doing it will last WAY longer than you think and when you line up to drag race you will try to face fuck yourself because you are so happy you have it!

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Cameron did fine job explaining what the trans is designed to do, but also said he has riding buddies that thrash on his overrides regularly. And yes, after talking with him,i wouldn't buy for my purposes, but I already have it. would just like some input on how to ride it. It boils down to me building one bike or two,don't really want a drag only bike.

And on a side note; Super nice guy, My call took him away from assembling something and he still made time to answer my questions, I feel guilty as I've not spent any money with him. (yet)

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Heres a writeup I did with some pictures and instructions to help adjust the spring tension properly on a duneable. With everything lined up perfect the duneable should be very forgiving and can even be backloaded. They arent 100% reliable like a stock trans but they are very fun to ride.

http://forums.atvdragracers.com/topic/12383-duneable-override-spring-balance-and-adjustment/page__pid__103028__unlockUserAgent__1

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i would still not back-load anything real on it (engine braking) personally. with any gear that has the 45* back-cut dogs, you are actually putting more force on the fork than on the trans gears themselfs. this is why non-duneables are no back-lading. i was under the assumption that all full-duneable trans have no back-cut dogs, unlike shown in that thread. the back-cutting has 2 efffects: it pushes the gear out of engaugment when back-loaded (by the next gear taking over) and reduces the degrees that it is possible to have the dogs out of allignment to engauge, by half the width of the ramp. on a strait-dog full-duneable, you can back-load all day long to your hearts content, even heavy engine breaking, you just have to ba "soft" about it, as the dogs that are cut out give the gears 3-4x the distance to travel between load direction, so abrupt load direction change will make it slap real hard on the other side of the dogs.

 

so basically, make sure you do have strait dogs, and just try to limit slaming into a back-load, which could be as simple as slipping the clutch when you downshift, and not sit there repeatedly blipping the throttle at high rpm's and letting off enough for hard engine braking between. i know i, and many do that out of boredom, and not the same as pulsing the throttle up a hill, or power-slide, which is perfectly fine to do.

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