banshee21 Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Ok the banshee has a miss/ hesitation when you go to WOT for about 2-3 seconds then clears up and runs fine, but if you let off and get into it again it does the same thing. If you stay in it after the first hesitation and run it WOT and nothing less it seems fine. Now this starting happening right out the the blue, so my first thoughts was to check jetting even though I havent touched the carb in years. The plugs looked good, so I checked compression and it was about 10-15 psi lower on one cylinder. So I figured it needed a fresh top end. I had it bored to 65.5mm as it was at 65mm already, got new wiseco pistons and complete top end, put it all back together and runs the exact same way as it did before the rebuild. The banshee has PT mids, +4 timing, vitos carbon reeds, trinity single 35pwk carb with airbox and K&N, Cool head with 21cc domes. All of which has been on the bike since the day I built it. It starts right up, even after it is warmed up sitting in neutral revving it up it sounds like it is running rich and dont have quite the right throttle response. So after rebuilding it and nothing changed, I started messing with the carb as it seems like it is running rich. Originally I had a 185 main 42 pilot clip in the middle of a EEK needle and air screw 1.5 turns out. So I figured I am going to go from one extreme to the next, so I throw a 152 main, 38 pilot, clip all the way up on needle, doesnt change a thing, so I went to a 220 main 60 pilot and clip all the way down, and to my very surprise no different at all, I cant believe it would even run much at all at these differences. So I thought that it must not be carb related so I moved on the electrical even though I didnt think it was the problem, SO i read the electrical FAQ and checked everything, stator, pick up, primary and secondary on the coil, everything checked out fine, but I figured I might as well eliminate a few more things so I got a ign. coil and cdi from a buddies banshee and put them on one at a time and nothing changed. I checked the compression after the rebuild and it is about 157-160 so the next thing I was goin to try was some CAM2 fuel, but I never needed it before but at least it would rule one more thing out. When it is doing its little hesitation is sometimes backfires very faintly, or might be spark knocking. I also thoroughly cleaned the carbs and inspected the reeds also with nothing wrong there.So now I am here asking if anybody has any suggestions because I am almost out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Did you shake the flywheel at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee21 Posted November 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 No, but I did get it lightened, and not long after that this problem started up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebanshee98 Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 ^ x2 also how about your spark plug caps? are they on nice and tight? i had a hesitation near the upper rpm range that actually sounded like a streetbike when it hits the rev limiter. i thought my caps were tight but they were not. new caps fixed that problem. get a video of it if you can. you know how they say pics are worth a thousand words well videos are worth a million words . if your back firing it could be a air leak or something electrical Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee21 Posted November 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 I will check the flywheel. The spark plug caps are tight, and when I swapped coils its caps were also good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Well hopefully you didn't get it lightened for no reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee21 Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Well I got home today and put some CAM2 in it and to no surprise nothing changed, so I took the stator cover off to pull the flywheel and noticed that the pickup coil gap was huge, so I stuck a feeler gauge in it and it was about .052", WOW supposed to be between .015-.020. So I set it back to where it belongs and runs like a champ, maybe a lil rich but I just need to rejet my carb which is no big deal, now I know for a fact when I changed out to the lightened flywheel I set the gap accordingly, so how it changed especially that much I will never know. One question though, the little round magnet on the pickup coil, should it be flat or at an angle? Mine is at an angle and if thats not right then I have a small points file and I can make it flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 It's prob at an angle because you flywheel hit it and knocked it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 x2. also, you want to rotate the engine 180* and check the gap again. really, find out why the gap went. they don't just get a hard-on, or get scared of the flywheel. flywheel could be loose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee21 Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Everything on the flywheel seems good , both magnets are set the same, should I file the pick up coil flat or leave it as it? The only thing I can think of is that I might of bumped it and knocked it out of whack somehow. Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted November 21, 2012 Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 how bad is it? mmight actually need a new one if it's pretty ground out. pics help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee21 Posted November 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 well actually the problem started back up, so I took the stator cover back off to check the gap and it was way out again, So with the stator cover off I fired it up and long and behold the flywheel moves up and down slightly. Then I shut it off and grabbed the flywheel and I can move it up and down prolly around .02-.03" and the crank moves with it, so I am guessing I need some new crank bearings. That sounds just about like my luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted November 21, 2012 Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 A buddy of mine had a loose screw bouncing around in his. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 *lowe and behold. pull the flywheel first and make sure the crank moves that much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 *lowe and behold. pull the flywheel first and make sure the crank moves that much yes. I actually just had the rivots that hold the flywheel to the hub elongate the holes and it throws it way out and the bike spits and sputters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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