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Clutch not grabbing?


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Hi guys,

Installed a Barnett clutch kit, and new MotionPro cable today. After putting in the fibers/steel/cushions and adjusting the screw as best I could, the two arrows still did not line up on the cases. The arm is still off to the right of the mark, but I read on here that that's fairly common. I got it all back together, and when I started it and put it in gear and released the clutch...it sounded like it was slipping, and my RPM's would barely drop..not even enough to stall.

 

Any idea what it might be? Any help is appreciated!

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Yeah, the plate was moving with the lever. I read on here while doing a search that the plates might just be sticking. It was pretty cold out for the little while I had the plates soaking. I'm going to try the suggestion I saw a few minutes ago of putting the rear (giggity) in the air, then clicking into first to let the wheels move freely, so the trans oil can loosen everything up.

 

Everything seemed to be adjusted (fairly) properly, with the exception of the arrows not lining up.

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make sure you put the pressure plate on correct!!

 

Yep, very commonly made mistake. The pressure plate has 3 arrows on it. Line 1 of them up with the dimple in the edge of the inner hub. Obviously, you can't see the dimple after you put the pressure plate on. The pressure plate will go on correctly 3 different ways. The other 3 ways, it won't go on far enough to mesh with the inner hub.

 

And what you're gonna try with the wheels in the air and running it will not be good for your new clutch.

Edited by Starwriter
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slack off the cable, move the clutch lever in the case by hand. you will feel the spring on it, and not be bale to release the clutch at all, but should still be able to move the lever by hand with effort. hard by hand, easy with pliers. adjust the clutch plate so that it will only move in the free-paly range of 1/8-1/4" closer to 1/4"the better. if the adjuster is in pretty far, then ther clutch is not installed right. you should see threads on the screw.

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Reinstalled the pressure plate according to the arrows- works a lot better now. When I was tightening down the springs (3 HD, 3 regular), it kept going with effort (I was only using a small socket). Should they bottom out at some point? I feel like it is still slipping though. My pressure plate mating surface is really smooth and shiny- should I replace the plate? I have a spare plate that has less wear on it, if it helps. If I try to line up the arrows on the case with the arm, the adjuster on the clutch doesn't come out far enough for the nut to seat itself on the PP- would that be due to my springs possibly not being tightened down all the way? I remember when taking the plate off that it took some effort to crack them loose.

 

The best thing so far is that the shift from N-1 doesn't make the bike lurch forward anymore, and my Neutral is easier to find!

 

(I feel like it's slipping because once it hits the higher RPMs, it hits them FAST...Am I just an idiot?)

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I can tell right away if a clutch it slipping or not... The easiest way is to take it out on the road and roll in the throttle in the higher gears, 4th-5th.. This will put the most load on the clutch.. You should have no issue in deciding if the clutch is holding or not!! As far as the 6 bolts that hold the pressure plate on, yes they will bottom out! No need to go crazy tight with them!

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I can tell right away if a clutch it slipping or not... The easiest way is to take it out on the road and roll in the throttle in the higher gears, 4th-5th.. This will put the most load on the clutch.. You should have no issue in deciding if the clutch is holding or not!! As far as the 6 bolts that hold the pressure plate on, yes they will bottom out! No need to go crazy tight with them!

 

I didn't have the bolts bottomed out, as I was afraid of possibly stripping them. They're pretty tight though. No harm in checking them again. I'll try and take it out tomorrow and checking the roll-on-throttle technique. Is the smooth shiny pressure plate surface a concern?

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did you slack the cable off far enough to allow the free-movement during adjustment?

 

On the case end or the lever end?

I snugged the screw up, and left a little play in the lever. I didn't bother with trying to adjust the arrows, as if I lined them up, the set screw nut slides behind the PP. I feel like my clutch modulation is maybe 1/8th of my total pull, so something's definitely not adjusted correctly. If I get out of work early enough today I'll look at it again.

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