Bbeecrft Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Well looks like I am going 10mil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Doukas Racing Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Bbeecrft: I generaly ask my customers this question. How fast can you afford to go. That dictates what level you want to start at. I do agree that a 4mill cub is a great starting point to learn all about tuning, engines & components, chassis setup as all of the mentioned have a huge imput on the end result. Most beginers tend to want a bigger motor and suffer continious engine failures or slow et's due to lack of knowledge. My personal pick to start building new chassis setup is a 4mill cub the step up to a 10mm supercub or something similar, Then a DM or larger. Work your way up the ladder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbeecrft Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Yea I see what you are saying. But a guy is selling his engine and getting out of racing. So I am getting his motor has dyno sheet 130hp. And I want to be the fastest around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbeecrft Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 My area that is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Yea I see what you are saying. But a guy is selling his engine and getting out of racing. So I am getting his motor has dyno sheet 130hp. And I want to be the fastest around. It doesnt work like that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Yea I see what you are saying. But a guy is selling his engine and getting out of racing. So I am getting his motor has dyno sheet 130hp. And I want to be the fastest around. it's just a dyno sheet. It means nothing. Unless you're getting his hole setup, have a similar weight rider, race at the same tracks he did and he was the fastest...you'll have more work to do. 100HP doesn't mean a thing if you can't get it to the ground efficiently. I'm not trying to knock you or what you're doing... Just trying to point out a motor with a dyno sheet is only one piece of a very large and ever changing puzzle. A proven, well running motor is a good place to start. Then again, I've seen complete dipshits take a completely proven motor and Fuck that up too. LOL. Good luck, you're starting off right. Just don't want you to overlook the big picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbeecrft Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Yea I see what ur saying. The fastest bike around here only runs like a 4.4 300ft. I got a 5.2 out of my stock ported engine. The set up is everything wireing carbs all. I know when I get it together then I will have to make adjustments. Just figured I would be putting more money in mine than what I can get this setup for. I want to be in the 3's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbeecrft Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Yes that is why I am on here for input good or bad. Like I said we are building it so after we get it all together it will be tnt time. Thinking +10 chromoly swingarm would that be to long? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted November 21, 2012 Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 Yes that is why I am on here for input good or bad. Like I said we are building it so after we get it all together it will be tnt time. Thinking +10 chromoly swingarm would that be to long? Too much we don't know to answer that. 10 mil cubs around here...you can say from 110 to 125HP. Roughly. Don't pin that as bible. Most of us use or used 12 to 14 over arms on stock chassis. You didn't say if you were running a stock chassis or not (or I didn't read...sorry...lol). Now that you're getting the motor, start looking at LIGHT parts. Chromoly arms, struts, axle, etc. Unsprung weight and rotating weight savings net huge results. I don't think I'm going out on a limb saying this. If you have a well tuned 130 HP bike, banshee based...the tune is farily good, the chasis setup is fairly good...you should have no problem running low 4s. 3 seconds is absolutely doable. But going from a mid 5 second bike to a sub 4 second is a WORLD of difference. It'll take more than just dropping a motor in. Also...a lighter rider, say 200lbs or lighter if you're going stock chassis. And I don't know what track you run, how it compares to others, etc. But the tracks I'm used to...a well running 130HP motor in a properly setup chassis on a good track should run 3's no problem. But it's a HUGE jump from where you're at now. Don't get discouraged if you pull it off the trailer and go mid-4 seconds. Setup, tuning, gearing and air pressure....just to name a very few points. Then you get into clutch, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbeecrft Posted November 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 I have pics of the chassis the orange one. It is a hybrid +18 front it weighs 48 on my home scale so not 100% accurate. Going with jj&a axle has Spindel front. I am going to start working out again so weight 160-170. As far as tracks go where are sum good ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmare Posted November 21, 2012 Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 We have a very nice dirt track here in Albuquerque. Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragbanshee98 Posted November 21, 2012 Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 3second passes should be no issue with that engine, but like mentioned above, it takes one hell of a good chassis setup, tuning is a MUST, and make sure your rider has a large set of nuts on him to pilot the thing. going froma stock style frame setup to a rigid CHASSIS is a whole nother thing to get into as well. be prepared for it to ride differently down the track than the old setup did.. we have a guy up our way that was running 3.8s with a 4 mill cub in a modded stock chassis. it took him a couple seasons of tweaking and changing setups to get to that point though so dont expect records to fall overnight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbeecrft Posted November 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Any one have any shear bb/sf out of frame. We found the motor we getting. Now got to get swingarm and jj&a axle. Slowly making progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 I have some BB/SF Silenced shearers. I don't think they fit a DM though. If you haven't bought that motor, I have a turn key 421 Cub with pipes and carbs that will run 3.8s on that chassis. Little to no tuning needed, Where do you race? That track in Mississippi? I'm 100 miles from Memphis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbeecrft Posted November 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 We been going to one in freindship TN called Ogden's and few motorcycle clubs have dirt tracks. I want to find sum more tracks I know we are going to Gilbert next season and bonne terra in MO. Probaly play at sum 1/8 mi asphalt to. How much on pipes and can u send sum pics, I got my motor but how much u asking on urs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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