LeroyJones Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 (edited) Looks like the clutch pushrod failure is a common problem. I have an RZ350 and I cannot get the fried clutch pushrod out of it. I just had the topend rebuilt and ported 700 miles ago. (the engine got around 60hp when it was running). Since the RZ350 bottom end is exactly like the Banshee I figured this would be the best forum to ask the question. Can I get that pushrod out of there without rebuilding the topend? If so are there any tricks and tips that I should know about before I try. Thanks, Leroy Boise, ID Edited November 11, 2012 by LeroyJones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClayAiken Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 People talk about splitting the cases upside down im not positive on how to do it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadarRacing Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Yes , its about as easy as doing it with the topend off. Do it upside down. You may be able to get the rod and ball out before actually splitting the cases. Poke at it or hammer slightly with a long screwdriver and see if it will come out before splitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finch Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 x2 should be able to get it out with out splitting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Being exactly the same you CAN do the splitting of cases with the motor upside down. Very very simple. My suggestion is to obviously drain the tranny fluid first as its going to find its way out the vent on the rear of the top case unless you drain it. Then it's either hammering out the rod (if it is even possible.....depends how hard it got welded) or replacing the entire shaft and installing your gears on the shaft. Not sure if it's the exact same shaft (price wise) but the banshee shaft if I remember is only about $70. That being said I wonder if the banshee pancake bearing will fit in the RZ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coryv4 Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 i split my case upside down i took a small rope tied it around the drive side of the crank went over top of the intake and tied it to the fly wheel side that way for what ever reason the crank does move it would smash the piston on the top half of the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 I've put it back together right side up so that you don't have to guess where the shift forks are gonna go. Assemble the trans in the lower case, then put a ratchet strap from the crank over the head, cross between the spark plugs and down to the other end of the crank. Then set the upper case half down onto the lower. Of coarse, you're gonna want to put in new crank seals first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeroyJones Posted November 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 (edited) That being said I wonder if the banshee pancake bearing will fit in the RZ..... Yeah, I got a pancake bearing for the clutch. Almost everything in a banshee engine is tranferable to an RZ350. Good deal for me since original RZ parts are scarce. The gears are a different ratio and the RZ has the Power Valve jugs. Other than that i believe they are the same engine. I've often wondered what a banshee engine would act like in an RZ, but that is another topic. Edited November 11, 2012 by LeroyJones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeroyJones Posted November 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 I've put it back together right side up so that you don't have to guess where the shift forks are gonna go. Assemble the trans in the lower case, then put a ratchet strap from the crank over the head, cross between the spark plugs and down to the other end of the crank. Then set the upper case half down onto the lower. Of coarse, you're gonna want to put in new crank seals first. i split my case upside down i took a small rope tied it around the drive side of the crank went over top of the intake and tied it to the fly wheel side that way for what ever reason the crank does move it would smash the piston on the top half of the case. If I can't get the rod out by going through the Clutch push lever hole I'll definately use your guys advice on securing the crank shaft. And all new seals. Thanks. x2 should be able to get it out with out splitting I'm going back to try pushing that rod out again. I did weld itself to the Clutch push lever so it may be mushroomed, but it does still move inside the drive shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike0chek Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 simple job done upside down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeroyJones Posted November 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Is it normal to have the clutch slip when torquing down the clutch spring bolts to 7.2 ft. lb. To torque the bolts down without the clutch slipping on me I had to put the motor in gear and jam the drive sprocket. I split the cases without a hitch. The clutch pushrod was trashed on both sides, so I had to grind around the one exposed ends to get it out. Put everything back together upside down holding the transmission into the bottom cases. Tried it the other way around but the crank oil and some remaining coolant in the jugs kept conspiring against me. I'm stuck at rebuilding the clutch. I bathed all the friction discs in motorcycle grade transmission oil and put it back together as per the clymers manual with the added pancake bearing. I'm wondering if the clutch slipping is normal on the rebuild? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notsed Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 " Is it normal to have the clutch slip when torquing down the clutch spring bolts to 7.2 ft. lb. To torque the bolts down without the clutch slipping on me I had to put the motor in gear and jam the drive sprocket." if putting the bike i gear and jamming the sprocket worked than your clutch isnt slipping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeroyJones Posted February 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 Hey notsed I may have had my terms mixed up because it was slipping thanks for the response though. Found out why my clutch wasn't fully engaging. The pancake bearing came sandwiched between two washers. Using both washers was prematurely bottoming out the pressure plate. I took out one washer between the pancake bearing and the flange on "Push Rod 1" and now the clutch works without slipping. A couple follow up questions. Is there a longer "Push Rod 2" available? I am not able to get the "Push Lever" to fully actuate. Every time I try to adjust the clutch I bottom out the "Ball" before I get the Push Lever to the mark on the case. When the engine is cold the clutch grabs. I'm using 10W40. I read that this is a common problem even for new engines. Do aftermarket clutches get rid of this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Unless your running an 8+ plate clutch, any adjuster should work. Do you have a pic? There are some longer adjusters if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 my chariot pancake came with 2 rods....one short and one long.....I BELIEVE I used the short one.... if I did and your in the US I could possibly mail you the longer one (if I do actually have it still) also....the grabby clutch is a common problem with cold oil as it seeps out between the friction plates and you have to run the motor and pull the clutch in to get some oil in between the frictions again.....its nothing to worry about. Changing to a different higher quality oil can help cure that problem if it annoys you that much. to answer your question about a banshee motor being in a rz chassis.....I think it would be a little much to handle as you wouldn't have the smooth transition into the powerband......it could get quite scary.....especially if your trying to zip off the line.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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