camatv Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 i didnt really read more than a few posts.. so this is just my opinion on this subject.. 'for the small cost of a new top end gasket set i'd split the entire motor.. i think i have wasted more time trying to realign the dang shift forks than it would have taken to pop the top end off.. for as clean as i like motors to be it also was nerve racking to do it without removing the top end. i have done it 2 times and i'll never do it that way again. while your in there you should send me that transmission so i can modify it for you! ok so i read some more of the "post's... umm the rz is a banshee BASED motor or rather the banshee engine IS based off the rz... the rz just has these majic thangy's called powervalves. it makes them much smoother and makes higher hp levels much easier to get and still have a motor you can "ride" the rz featured a tach in the top of the case, and an oil injection system, it also has a different flywheel and stator setup to run with a battery. and completely differnt top end, cyls and head are different than banshee.. the pusher should have fit with both washers in there. if the pusher is aluminum there is a very good chance the bearing will work its way into the soft alluminum and seize now.. thats what the 'washers" are there for.. there are a few different lengths of pushers some are extended to allow easier adjustments through a lockup clutch. others are shorter to work with stock covers and stock components . unless your clutch was really worn out it may have been bottoming due to that? if you have a manual you should measure the clutch fibers AND the steels. its not NORMAL for your clutch to be "grabby". unless its worn out or the basket, boss, and pressure plate are worn.. fibers are usually 3mm thick and i THINK steels run about 1.25? or 1.5mm thick. also need to check for warpage on the steels also. if the motor was "rebuilt" all that should have been checked when that was done.. at least i check them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_RZ350 info on the RZ a sweet street bike if i say so.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastrykiller Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 I've changed crank seals, tranny, shift forks on numerous occasions without disturbing the topend. I agree with camatv about the shift forks being a pain in the ass but patience goes a long way. It's really simple and my preferred way of doing the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon dunner Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 A friend of mine just had this same thing happened to his clutch rod and ball. He didn't want to split the cases so he drilled a small hole on the left side of the case so he could get a small punch in there and drive/free the welded rod and ball. He put new parts in and used epoxy to seal up the hole he drilled. He did this back at camp and was back riding the next day. It beats splitting the cases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 I've changed crank seals, tranny, shift forks on numerous occasions without disturbing the topend. I agree with camatv about the shift forks being a pain in the ass but patience goes a long way. It's really simple and my preferred way of doing the job. The shift forks are no trouble at all if you do it right side up. Assemble the trans in the lower case half. Put a ratchet strap from the crank end, over the head, crossover between the spark plugs, and down to the other end of the crank. Lower the top case half down onto the bottom half. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 A friend of mine just had this same thing happened to his clutch rod and ball. He didn't want to split the cases so he drilled a small hole on the left side of the case so he could get a small punch in there and drive/free the welded rod and ball. He put new parts in and used epoxy to seal up the hole he drilled. He did this back at camp and was back riding the next day. It beats splitting the cases. He did WHAT???? There is no way in HELL you could get me to drill a hole in my cases to get the push road out......especially if he had the parts to install to fix the problem.....HELL....its easier to just open the cases. And for that matter it takes about 30 minutes to get the motor out of the frame and another 30 to get the cases split upside down. you could blow this up in the early am and still have PLENTY of time to get back out for the afternoon WITHOUT COMPROMISING YOUR CASES......but I will give your buddy credit for trying to come up with a different way to solve a problem... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave5.0 Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Just saw that the dude who started this is in Boise. Wish I woulda seen this when you started the thread. Ida given you a hand. Especially if you late me take it for a spin after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon dunner Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 I wouldn't have done it myself but it worked and it was quick. He just used a 1/8" drill bit and punched it free. He is still dunning the motor with no leaks and no troubles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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