ohmaerm Posted November 9, 2012 Report Share Posted November 9, 2012 Hi forum!! I'm new to the forum but been around shee's in the past. I just picked up an 04 shee and right off the bat started doing mods to it. I bought it bone stock except for Toomy pipes and aftermarket stator I'm assuming for the battery and hid lights. So here is what I have done to it in the last 3 weeks: Shaved head Wiseco 65.5 rebuild Billet Timing Plate +/- 4 board carbs Lightened Flywheel V-force Reeds 4 TORS Eliminate kit I still have the reeds, carbs and pipes to put on but after that im ready to roll. So b4 I put on the carbs what jets size jets should I use? Im at 1600ft. Also with what I have done, what would be the best fuel and oil and ratio should I run? Thanks for any input!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarineNYC Posted November 9, 2012 Report Share Posted November 9, 2012 You need to do a compression test to determine if you need race gas or just high test. Are you running a air box? If so is the lid off? And what kind of filter. Foam or k&n type. This will all come into play for the jet sizes. All that being said no matter what gas you run I would run a 32:1 mixture. Most people run this ratio. Good luck and welcome to our site. You have come to the right place! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_21 Posted November 9, 2012 Report Share Posted November 9, 2012 Also going to depend on the weather a bit for jetting, where do you live? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohmaerm Posted November 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2012 Thanks for the input, I will do a compression test this weekend, also I live in Tucson, AZ its starting to cool down a bit here low 70's-mid 80's. I Have a uni foam filter, it came on the bike, no air box. Should I replace the filter for k&n? I have used k&n in the past and didn't have any troubles, don't have any exsprince with uni. Thanks again!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskool Posted November 10, 2012 Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 Its a good idea to do a leak down test after a rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohmaerm Posted November 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 This is kinda a dumb question, but what is the process of doing a leak down test? I'll be testing compression tomorrow evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finch Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 "no dumb questions only dumb people who ask them" http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110585 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohmaerm Posted November 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Lol thanks for the link bud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohmaerm Posted November 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2012 Well last night we did the leak down test, it lost a little more then 1/2 a pound in the 6 minuet test, so I thought the results were pretty good. I wasn't able to get my hands on the compression tester last weekend but am picking up one tomorrow, so I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks again for the help guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohmaerm Posted November 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 Hey everyone, Happy Thanksgiving!!!! So hers the low down on the bike so far: Dd a compression test and left side cylinder was at 168psi and the right side cylinder was at 170psi So here's the settings I think im going to go with: Breake in period, 91 pump gas with 32:1 klotz 300 main's 27.5 pilot Keep the stock needle setting Plugs gaped at 32 thousands. Does this sound like this should be good to start with? Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohmaerm Posted November 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 Oh and air/fuel screw I'm going to put it at 1-1/2 turns from all the way cloaed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 You need more octane then that if the motor is making that kind of compression. The motor will actually create a little more compression as the rings seat as well. 91 octane ain't gonna cut it. Shaving the head will get you torque, but you need to make sure you give it enough octane so it won't detonate. Especially if you are adding timing as well. If you want to run pump fuel, send the head out to a reputable builder and have it chambered. You would even be surprised at the gains proper domes/chambers would bring you. You could even just ditch the head and order a cool head and domes from a builder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finch Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 also hope your crank has been welded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 032 is too much of a gap, too much comp for pump fuel IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohmaerm Posted November 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 So I've been braking in the top end, first 3- 10min runs I was 1/4 throttle (complete cool down before each run) ran desent, next 2 runs I was at 1/2 throttle and ran better. Next 2 runs I was at 3/4 throttle and ran even better. Then the next 2 runs was I was full throttle and had great power!! Let it cool till the next day and took it out for a few hours, it ran okay messed with the carbs a bit and I still couldn't get it to idol I had to keep it running with the throttle. But while I was riding I noticed my clutch getting softer and softer until it wouldn't engage anymore. Tried every witch way to adjust the clutch cable and no luck. So I brought it home and took off the clutch cover to discover that the clutch adjustment screw in the middle of the basket was missing the washer and nut. (I never took off the clutch cover since I got the bike) what problems would this cause? Now it runs like crap and I can hear grinding in (i think the tranny). Any help would be with this would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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