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Banshee build


dunesovertrails

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Hey Chris you may want to add this to your wish list. Get rid of those bulky boxes above the carbs :)

Just a thought.

Troy

 

http://www.ebay.com/...5310574&vxp=mtr

I was thinking why not do it while everythings apart. I will definitely be doing that. I was just worried about having to make my own idle screws beause somebody said that you have to or whatever so i was a little like whtevs but since this one has em i will forsure! Thanks Troy!

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With the bike assembled mark ALL tabs that can be removed. All to after people can't remember what something does so they leave it and it looks retarded

Are these the tabs i can remove? If theres any more please let me know. Obviously i'd remove them on both sides.

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Edited by dunesovertrails
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Pic #1 - Yes, they're only used for stock exhaust.

Pic #2 - Only if you're not running factory steel heel guards, ie. pegs only.

Pic #3 - If you're running 'race cut' front fenders remove these.

Pic #4 - You might want to keep these as some aftermarket exhausts mount here. They also add frame strength as a gusset.

 

Suggested bracket removals: There is another exhaust bracket rearward of that last pic, it has an M8 thread inside it and is welded top and bottom right on the 'S' bend of the uptube of the subframe if that makes sense. You won't need that as that's where the stock exhaust mounts up. If you're going to run cutdown rear fenders you might not need the two brackets that poke out each side of the subframe, depends on how you plan on cutting the fender though. Also, if you planning on upgrading to braided brake lines remove the tabs on the front where the bulkhead union clips in for the front brakes.

 

I just did all these recently except the fender brackets and it really cleans up the frame. Got everything powder coated gloss black and it's all going back together now. Waiting on my Fox Floats and Alba +2 A-arms.

Edited by SpecialEd 05
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Pic #1 - Yes, they're only used for stock exhaust.

Pic #2 - Only if you're not running factory steel heel guards, ie. pegs only.

Pic #3 - If you're running 'race cut' front fenders remove these.

Pic #4 - You might want to keep these as some aftermarket exhausts mount here. They also add frame strength as a gusset.

 

Suggested bracket removals: There is another exhaust bracket rearward of that last pic, it has an M8 thread inside it and is welded top and bottom right on the 'S' bend of the uptube of the subframe if that makes sense. You won't need that as that's where the stock exhaust mounts up. If you're going to run cutdown rear fenders you might not need the two brackets that poke out each side of the subframe, depends on how you plan on cutting the fender though. Also, if you planning on upgrading to braided brake lines remove the tabs on the front where the bulkhead union clips in for the front brakes.

 

I just did all these recently except the fender brackets and it really cleans up the frame. Got everything powder coated gloss black and it's all going back together now. Waiting on my Fox Floats and Alba +2 A-arms.

Thanks for the info man, Damn sounds pretty sick... post up some pics, fox floats are sexy

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Thanks for the info man, Damn sounds pretty sick... post up some pics, fox floats are sexy

 

No problem, I'll get some progress pics. Another thing you might want to do is check your steering stem stop where the bearing is. The stop has a common problem of bending forwards and cracking at the weld. Mine did. I bent it straight, rewelded and added some gussets for strength.

 

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In addition to everything mentioned, if you're going to run pods, cut off the airbox mounts. Cut off the TORS control box mount. It doesn't show, but get rid of it anyway.

 

X2 on the steering stop mod. It may even be kinda mushed on the side contact points and need to be built up with a welder. Check to see how far the steering turns before you take the suspension apart.

 

Buy a new lower steering stem bearing and seal kit. It's only $15. You'll need something like this to get the bearing out.

 

DSC00061.jpg

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