Need pipes for serval dyno testing

[sprinklerman]

Comparing 4k to 6.5k,,,yea. But i see many engines that come on at 5500. now we are back at only a 1500 RPM difference. A 4,7,10mm Serval is FAR,FAR from "pipey". Blip the throttle at almost any REASONABLE rpm, and BOOM, you are in the power. ,,,Afterall we are talking about engines that IDLE at about 1500 rpm..

 

Im wondering if what you are trying to explain is an engine with good TQ backup and roll-on power without a pipey delivery? I mean, an engine that comes on good at say 5500 RPM and pulls to 10,500 RPM should suit a shorter track or a longer one. Yea? How wide of a spread of power do ya need?

[rjdgriff]

Try stock pipes on serval?

[cjcrete]

Comparing 4k to 6.5k,,,yea. But i see many engines that come on at 5500. now we are back at only a 1500 RPM difference. A 4,7,10mm Serval is FAR,FAR from "pipey". Blip the throttle at almost any REASONABLE rpm, and BOOM, you are in the power. ,,,Afterall we are talking about engines that IDLE at about 1500 rpm..

 

Im wondering if what you are trying to explain is an engine with good TQ backup and roll-on power without a pipey delivery? I mean, an engine that comes on good at say 5500 RPM and pulls to 10,500 RPM should suit a shorter track or a longer one. Yea? How wide of a spread of power do ya need?

 

Good Tq backup is a must. This is why I started this thread. I want to try a few pipes that will not fall off the pipe like the shearers do. The ability to (blip) and its right there. I've had all this with my 7mil stock cylinder. 84/52 are great numbers but I just need that motor to wake up without the off pipe lag.

[cjcrete]

 

 

 

 

 

Nice torq curves now I would like to try some pipes for result on this build. that's all

[dave5.0]

I know I'm no better than the rest of the douchebags on here fuckin up threads, but this guy just wants some pipes to test. Why are we all trying to educate him? Can't we just get him some pipes or stfu?

[Dicklez]

Those charts are custom shearers and fmfs. The shearers are the ones on the 7mil and stroke stroke chart. The fmf is the top two charts i posted l posted last.

 

 

I see Nick_1 paint on the bottom of your tool bar. It all must be photoshopped. lol

[WINDYCITYJOHN400]

Your posting because you think a 72 bore 7 mill stroke motor might like a pipe that is smaller than a Shearer SB ?

You may have a dyno....but it sounds like you need a better understanding of the roll thst HEAT plays in the equation. Running a motor that big with a smaller stinger (like most average pipes have that's only 7/8" will look great for a few short dyno runs....but by lap 2 will be heat soaking that motor and it won't be happy.

You can't find a pipe that will help you make power when your off the pipe....That's why it's called "off the pipe" because your left with just what the motor can make with it's own size.

 

Rethink your statements about how power is used.

If you insist that grabing brakes as you work thru the pack kills the rpm.....then how many rpms does it drop? The gearing is what pulled the motor rpms back down. If you gear the snot out of the bike, it will stay in the powerband that the pipe can support. You can still grab brakes and slow down......you just won't fall off the pipe.

I've worked with a few dirt oval track car guys and bottom end isn't what they crave. Top end is where it's at in that game.

We can agree or disagree about the use or need for power at different rpms. But heat build up from undersized pipes will ultimately settle the dispute no matter what we think.

[WINDYCITYJOHN400]

I know I'm no better than the rest of the douchebags on here fuckin up threads, but this guy just wants some pipes to test. Why are we all trying to educate him? Can't we just get him some pipes or stfu?

 

Great point Dave. I guess I agree with your point.

Somebody might as well do it so we can say it's been tried.

Buy I would think that with him having a dyno, the kind of pipes he's looking to try should be rolling in and out the door weekly.

I don't see R2's ot Paul Turners often. But most of the others show up pretty often.

[AKheathen]

i just had to bust out my tape measure....... gotta walk out to the shee later and check, but the old school fmf stingers i was running on the pro-circuits were 1", and some spare pc stingers i have are only 7/8"..... don't think i over-looked that, but i did put them on in a hurry...

[mike0chek]

Let me start this

Shearer FTW

 

x136454

[cjcrete]

if your looking for that specific of a set up... the only route to go is a PV cheetah... go look up Bigreds cheetah... if i remember right it was around 58 TQ and 90ish HP. 4mil 78bore (if i remember right) you want TQ smooth deliver and off / on pipe friendlyness... get a proper set up PV cheetah and never look back. You gotta pay to play

 

 

ive done more reaserch into cheetah's and kicked a few tires flat shopping for a set up... in the long run... a proper running PV cheetah is a TT racers dream.... the key is propr set up... there are very few properly running cheetahs out there. For starters the trick is not to get a bolt on set up from trinity

 

your looking for something so specific that the serval will never really accomplish what you exactly want fully.

 

budget wise sure serval is awesome after some porting and work but a pv cheetah will put you over that bar and surpass your expectations the people that got proper running ones can vouche for that.

 

 

 

Thanks for the input, still not why i posted this thread but........... i value your input, unlike some. I did look back at reds dyno numbers on that pv cheetah. 55tq/109hp Great numbers, But the only problem was it took till 9500 to make that 55tq and was only making 35tq @7500. were the serval is making 50tq @7500 and holding it to 47 @9500 More usable torque cuve for my liking.

[CJ PERFORMANCE]

holy fuck... dude just wants some pipes

[trickedcarbine]

Hey I am a flat track ice racer out of Michigan so I know what you are after. I definitely think there are great advantages to the PV motors but as you mentioned they still seem to take a while to really come alive. Big Red has a nice motor but it is not like those PV's actually create more bottom end on that particular set up, they more or less make the abrupt delivery of the power become smoother which is nice out of the turn on blue groove clay or powdery topped ice tracks.

 

I really think that the more research I do that a properly set up big serval is the ticket. I am seeing guys doing things with them to get more front side curve then an equally sized cheetah will produce with only a slight sacrifice to the top end. And in our kind of racing covering ground faster out of the turn means being first in to the next turn. Hence you wanting the roll on power. On that note, I really don't think you will find any pipe to get you going any earlier then the Pro Circuits will. However those pipes will look good on a dyno, yet in the real world they will become totally heat saturated and not transfer the heat nearly enough to let your big serval do its thing. A 7mm super serval is a pretty big motor and I am designing my new set up around the same motor maybe even a 10mm.

 

This is where I ask exactly what your set up is? I know you don't wanna hear it but under true oval race conditions you are gonna need a big inframe pipe. With just a little porting you can have it designed to come on smoother and even earlier. There are a handful of builders doing it. But do your research and make sure if you do go that route that they have built that style of motor and actually raced it. Not just sent a racer a dune port(HJR, FAST).

 

Then comes in to play the proper domes, with a bigger in frame you should be using compression and race gas or even alky if you are a warm weather racer. These servals seem to really do well around 165psi cranking. Then you can throw timing at it. With he better fuel the motor will handle it and resist detonation. Start around 7 degrees and work from there. Back when guys out in the north west were milling cubs down to create serval type cylinders, they were throwing as much as 10 degrees at them so it can be done. Don't be a pussy with the fuel, you spent all that money on the motor don't be cheap now!

 

Next, learn to gear that thing! That is a totally different motor combo then what most guys are running for our style of racing. So duners and drag racers can only make UNEDUCATED guesses. You will have to ride the thing and really figure it out. I don't know your experience, but I've been ice racing since my teen years and I have found that grabbing the brake is a momentum and RPM KILLER! A motor that size should have a lock up and if you give it the compression you should be able to take advantage of engine braking by gearing it so that as you approach the turn at WOT all you need to do is literally yank the clutch drop ONE gear let the clutch go and let the bike do its thing and set up. IE. as soon as you let the clutch out the bike should slow a touch and begin to pitch sideways all the while staying on the pipe. As soon as the bike finishes pitching, full throttle that bitch! Come off the apex and grab your gear maybe two but if it is two you are on a bigger track and might need to gear differently.

 

If you were willing to read what I said, I have a set of Original Rockets you could play with on the Dyno. You pay the freight both ways and I must have a deposit or copy of your info, something...... You can play with them for a week and then I need to get back to testing.

If you think the Shearer pipes aren't doing it for you these might. Like I said, you might not see it on a short run on a dyno, but once you are hot lapping that thing it is a total different ball game. We are litterally drag racing these things twice a lap with 3/4-full throttle bursts in between. So a pro circuit on your bigger bike may not play to well after 4-5 laps. My bike is an 80hp set up but probably makes a few less on the rockets but it seems to make more usable power on them then the shearers with my Passion 12 port/4mil short track motor.

If you like them I know a couple fellas you can get a set from. You might be surprised. Loco took a 4mm serval with rockets and won a hill climbing event, so they have some grunt.

PM me and let me know. Maybe get me a contact number? Brett

[cjcrete]

holy fuck... dude just wants some pipes

 

That's some funny shit! Hahah

[cjcrete]

Hey I am a flat track ice racer out of Michigan so I know what you are after. I definitely think there are great advantages to the PV motors but as you mentioned they still seem to take a while to really come alive. Big Red has a nice motor but it is not like those PV's actually create more bottom end on that particular set up, they more or less make the abrupt delivery of the power become smoother which is nice out of the turn on blue groove clay or powdery topped ice tracks.

 

I really think that the more research I do that a properly set up big serval is the ticket. I am seeing guys doing things with them to get more front side curve then an equally sized cheetah will produce with only a slight sacrifice to the top end. And in our kind of racing covering ground faster out of the turn means being first in to the next turn. Hence you wanting the roll on power. On that note, I really don't think you will find any pipe to get you going any earlier then the Pro Circuits will. However those pipes will look good on a dyno, yet in the real world they will become totally heat saturated and not transfer the heat nearly enough to let your big serval do its thing. A 7mm super serval is a pretty big motor and I am designing my new set up around the same motor maybe even a 10mm.

 

This is where I ask exactly what your set up is? I know you don't wanna hear it but under true oval race conditions you are gonna need a big inframe pipe. With just a little porting you can have it designed to come on smoother and even earlier. There are a handful of builders doing it. But do your research and make sure if you do go that route that they have built that style of motor and actually raced it. Not just sent a racer a dune port(HJR, FAST).

 

Then comes in to play the proper domes, with a bigger in frame you should be using compression and race gas or even alky if you are a warm weather racer. These servals seem to really do well around 165psi cranking. Then you can throw timing at it. With he better fuel the motor will handle it and resist detonation. Start around 7 degrees and work from there. Back when guys out in the north west were milling cubs down to create serval type cylinders, they were throwing as much as 10 degrees at them so it can be done. Don't be a pussy with the fuel, you spent all that money on the motor don't be cheap now!

 

Next, learn to gear that thing! That is a totally different motor combo then what most guys are running for our style of racing. So duners and drag racers can only make UNEDUCATED guesses. You will have to ride the thing and really figure it out. I don't know your experience, but I've been ice racing since my teen years and I have found that grabbing the brake is a momentum and RPM KILLER! A motor that size should have a lock up and if you give it the compression you should be able to take advantage of engine braking by gearing it so that as you approach the turn at WOT all you need to do is literally yank the clutch drop ONE gear let the clutch go and let the bike do its thing and set up. IE. as soon as you let the clutch out the bike should slow a touch and begin to pitch sideways all the while staying on the pipe. As soon as the bike finishes pitching, full throttle that bitch! Come off the apex and grab your gear maybe two but if it is two you are on a bigger track and might need to gear differently.

 

If you were willing to read what I said, I have a set of Original Rockets you could play with on the Dyno. You pay the freight both ways and I must have a deposit or copy of your info, something...... You can play with them for a week and then I need to get back to testing.

If you think the Shearer pipes aren't doing it for you these might. Like I said, you might not see it on a short run on a dyno, but once you are hot lapping that thing it is a total different ball game. We are litterally drag racing these things twice a lap with 3/4-full throttle bursts in between. So a pro circuit on your bigger bike may not play to well after 4-5 laps. My bike is an 80hp set up but probably makes a few less on the rockets but it seems to make more usable power on them then the shearers with my Passion 12 port/4mil short track motor.

If you like them I know a couple fellas you can get a set from. You might be surprised. Loco took a 4mm serval with rockets and won a hill climbing event, so they have some grunt.

PM me and let me know. Maybe get me a contact number? Brett

 

Sent u a pm Bret!