andres1 Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 Can a bad or chewed up key change the timing and cause detonations???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 Yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andres1 Posted October 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 Thanks...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted October 12, 2012 Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 Hit up Kevin @ HJR, he can get you a new timing key, flywheel and crank if any of them are chewed up enough that you need a replacement. -Jared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andres1 Posted October 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 thanks but it was only the key Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted October 12, 2012 Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 thanks but it was only the key I bought like 3 from Yamaha. From the dealer they were about 3 bucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey83 Posted October 12, 2012 Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 Couldnt deto also.cause the key to take a hit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted October 12, 2012 Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 No. If your flywheel is torq'd properly it wont move, and the only thing the key is supposed to do is align the flywheel, it is not there to hold it in place or precent it from rotating. The taper on the flywheel is what holds it in place. Jared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicklez Posted October 12, 2012 Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 Sometimes its good to smear some lapping compound on the crank and spin the flywheel on the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulie B Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 A janked up key is either from the flywheel slipping or carelessness installing the flywheel. Whn the flywheel taper matches the cank taper right and it's torqued correctly, technically you don't even need a key. Get some valve lapping compound from the auto parts store, dab it inside the flywheel taper and work you hand back in forth and around while pushing the flywheel on. Pull it off and wipe it with a rag, repeat, repeat, repeat. You will know when it's enough by the whole inside of the taper as well as the crank taper being the same dull sheen. Brandon gave me tip for monster HP motors that doesn't apply to me but since were here, heat up the flywheel taper with a torch then install. Obviously not glowing hot but around say 200-250 degrees. Once installed and cooled down they will be married. I didn't do the torch part. I'm paranoid about gettin the flywheel back off which I had bad luck with before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFB172 Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 That is some impressive carnage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulvafan537240 Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 ouch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee4mil Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 cheap moon keys will bend and shift on you as well use good ones or oem, are you sure its not a advanced key? "offset for timing changes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 18, 2012 Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 cheap moon keys will bend and shift on you as well use good ones or oem, are you sure its not a advanced key? "offset for timing changes? as mentioned, the key is there for allignment purposes only. it fits snug so it won't flop around and wear the groove, but other than that, it might as well be made of plastic. seating is key. a loose flywheel, and deto can go hand in hand. one can cause the other. i've done the heat-seat trick on a camping trip, after i had installed it at home, in the rain, but otherwise don't wish to. i always keep both tapers scuffed with scotch-brite to knock down any imperfections, and install using a hand-impact driver. blue loctite is a must. that one time, i rushed to get her back together when it started raining, i paid for. like 4hours in front of the camp-fire to repair the carbnage, but i made it the rest of the week-end. one trick to getting them off when stuck, is to drill along the taper (without nicking the shaft) to releive the seating pressure. it really works. and then, heat. always make sure the puller is absolutely seated before putting pressure on the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulie B Posted October 18, 2012 Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 I should have asked you first. That ideal beats plasma cutting and grindin it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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