ATVridinMaNiAc Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 I don't remember seeing any wear marks in that area, I usually check that area before I install any seal, but that was a few beers ago. I'll find out this weekend. Oh, and I should be able to pull the bottom case and remove the seal without pulling the jugs right. I read that could the other day but wanted to verify. Ive heard of some people doing it, just keeping the jugs on and having it flipped over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 Ive heard of some people doing it, just keeping the jugs on and having it flipped over. Yup.....you can.....just kinda awkward as the jugs are gonna cause the motor to be tilted while it's upside down. Done it before to swap out a tranny... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike0chek Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 Yup.....you can.....just kinda awkward as the jugs are gonna cause the motor to be tilted while it's upside down. Done it before to swap out a tranny... yep its not an easy job but not too bad either, just take your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAJUN BANSHEE Posted October 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 Thanks fellas, that's what I'll do, I'll block it up level. Better than ordering another base gasket and trying to stab the pistons by myself again lol that was a bitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedder Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 I've opened our asphalt motors many times without pulling the head or cylinders. Take an old towel and fold it into a nice thick layer to set under the head and use a block of wood under the rear motor mount. If you have any trouble or questions shoot me a pm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAJUN BANSHEE Posted October 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 I've opened our asphalt motors many times without pulling the head or cylinders. Take an old towel and fold it into a nice thick layer to set under the head and use a block of wood under the rear motor mount. If you have any trouble or questions shoot me a pm. Thanks bro, will do. Might tear her down tonight if work don't bust my balls today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAJUN BANSHEE Posted October 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 Well, got her all back together with the new OEM seal yesterday, waited a few hours for 1211 to cure and performed leakdonwn test. Within 10 min nothing changed. Came back in 30 and lost about a half of a psi. Went to bed, got up this morning, spilled coffe on tools from stepping on tools lol, motor is holding at 2 psi. Im satisfied but not 100%. Think Im gonna let her fly like it is, what yall think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
421alkybanshee Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 your fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulie B Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 your fine Your motor is sealed better then any of my motors brother. Run it and enjoy it now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAJUN BANSHEE Posted October 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 Thanks for all yalls help, putting back together as we speak then to the dyno in a few weeks. I'll post some results and pics. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 Well they say you need to hold 6psi for 6 minutes with nothing more than a loss of 1psi per minute. That being said I've sealed mine and still had 6 psi after 5 hours.......but I'm a little weird about making sure they seal. If it was sit holding 2 psi from the previous night you are WAY more than safe to run that motor without worry of the leakdown test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jbeck103 Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 I had the same issue the other night, Call me a redneck but I just put another spring on it and filled it with some grease and I no longer have a leak. Will it last? Who the fuck knows........ If youve got money in the motor id reccomend using transmission rebuild grease instead of regular wheel bearing grease. Worth the money when you look at what you got into the motor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAJUN BANSHEE Posted October 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 Getting a bit scared now, even though it passed a ldt, its still leaking on the same crank seal even though I replaced it. I know its the crank, so guess ill tear her down again after I find another fucking crank. Sorry, just venting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAJUN BANSHEE Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 New crank comming from fast. Jeff is da man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebetekbanshee358 Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 New crank comming from fast. Jeff is da man! I would f ran it dude... U say its a 4mil cub....that's not a crazy investment..a crazy investment is a 18dm..10grand...then it's time to cr..but good luck dude..wha would u do if it leaks in same spot again....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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