Jump to content

Rear brake line won't bleed out


locogato11283

Recommended Posts

OK, so I have done this total rebuild. Last fucking thing I have to do is bleed the rear line.

 

I rebuilt all three calipers. The bled the fronts in about 5 minutes with my Mityvac.

 

For some reason, the fucking rear won't do shit. I tried the Mityvac. I even bought a new one thinking it was fucked up.

 

I have taken the master cylinder apart and everything looks good per the Clymers.

 

Any ideas on why in the fuck it is taking me longer to bleed the rear line than it has to put the whole bike together?

 

It has to be something stupid that I am overlooking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when i put the mattoon res on mine i had to pump half a bottle threw it to finally get decent pressure. i don't use any vac or any thing just pump it threw tighten the valve pump it a few times then hold it down and crack the valve. worked for me took a while of messing with it tho.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you try bleeding at both banjo bolts? Sometimes ill do that if its giving me problems. The one at the master cylinder then the one on the caliper.

I gotta do the same thing, wont work the normal way. I think it might have something to do with have the line extended :shrugani:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just did mine and same thing. no fluid to the caliper i thought.. took the bleeder all the way out and there was a chunk of nasty shit in the bleed hole. Just a thought. ?? If its brand new stuff disregard. If old stuff make sure the bleeder is actually open. spin it out and blow through it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try filling it up from the bleeder. Use a big schringe and a hose to force fluid in to the caliper and up in to the rez. That way your pushing the air up instead of down. It should be enough to get it pressure to bleed it like normal. Completly dry brakes are hard to get to take fluid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have never had an issue bleeding a line, even an extended one.

 

I guess my next step is taking the rear caliper apart.

 

The master cylinder is put together right. Something must be blocking the flow in the caliper itself.

 

It seems like it's sucking, but there's no way it can be..

 

Bleeding the rear brake line is about a 3 minute process with a Mityvac. If you don't have one, I suggest spending $40 and getting one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bleeding the rear brake line is about a 3 minute process with a Mityvac. If you don't have one, I suggest spending $40 and getting one.

 

If you want to save yourself 38 dollars by a a couple feet of hose and suck the shit through....sounds really gay but it fucking works.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

unbolt the caliper put a block between the pads, raise the caliper above the master cyl. so the air bubble can rise to the bleeder screw.

 

also make sure you don't have the rod adjusted to tight, so the fill hole in the master is fully open.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im havn the same problem my caliper wont catch unless i pump the brake lever a bunch of times n if i try to use the rear brake while riding, after a few times the caliper locks on the rotor and i have to completely disengage the rear brakes n not use them. what is causing this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im havn the same problem my caliper wont catch unless i pump the brake lever a bunch of times n if i try to use the rear brake while riding, after a few times the caliper locks on the rotor and i have to completely disengage the rear brakes n not use them. what is causing this?

 

 

if your caliper is not been rebuilt i would say it needs a rebuild. it sounds like its rusty in there and making it stick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, so I have done this total rebuild. Last fucking thing I have to do is bleed the rear line.

 

I rebuilt all three calipers. The bled the fronts in about 5 minutes with my Mityvac.

 

For some reason, the fucking rear won't do shit. I tried the Mityvac. I even bought a new one thinking it was fucked up.

 

I have taken the master cylinder apart and everything looks good per the Clymers.

 

Any ideas on why in the fuck it is taking me longer to bleed the rear line than it has to put the whole bike together?

 

It has to be something stupid that I am overlooking.

 

Fill the resi, pull rear banjo, raise it above the master, pumpit a few times to get fluid started. Sometimes they will air lock if it is completely dry and you will fight it forever.banghead

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fill the resi, pull rear banjo, raise it above the master, pumpit a few times to get fluid started. Sometimes they will air lock if it is completely dry and you will fight it forever.banghead

 

I've bled tons of brake lines with my Mityvac and never had a problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I got it figured out.

 

The piece that the brake lever actually attaches to in the new rebuild kit I used was an inch longer than the stock one. So basically, it was already pushing the piston up far enough to keep fluid from coming in. Once I figured that out, it took about 4 minutes to bleed the brakes. I just swapped it out with the stock one I had. Stupid ass rebuild kit.

 

Thanks for the help guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...