DirectIntelect Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Oh ye Banshee experts! I need help again, as you guys make owning a Banshee easier for the masses. I purchased a used shee few months back (see my other posts) and finally decided to pop the head off. Why did i do this? i was riding one day, it started reving out of control and driving on its own. Initially when i got the bike the stop/run switch didn't work but the lights did. No issue, i was happy that i could at least ride. Long story short, quad died on me 2 miles out from my home, and i said to myself has to be something in the set up. Pulled the carbs, had a crazy clogged pilot jet. Switched that out as i already thought i was running rich, no start. Kicks and kicks, nothing. Spark test, no spark. Used the Cllymer manual, followed all steps possible, and realized the guy who had the quad did something with the electrical system. Now, i have no clue what the issue could be, but i no for sure the stop start switch does not work, tested it with multimeter to verify. Coil assembly provided good test results on primary leads, but secondary had no action. So, that with no spark, i'm leaning towards a new coil. I have no clue what else it would be as the wires seem spliced in so many places. Take a look at these images and please try and help me out. Once again to all of you guys, THANKS.... Why does the piston look pitch black? Is that coolant all over the place normal? This was what the head looked like. Had some o-ring type thing, not sure if that's normal, but from that iv read and seen, should i have a head gasket? Now the wiring issue. In the Clymer is says to check main switch wires B and B/R my set up does not have that, all i see is Brown/Black/Black+White attched. There are two wires not in use, a Red and Brown. Any ides? This is from the ignition main switch, does not have such thing in the manual! The wire goes all the way to the other side (left side on quad) and is connected like this These are also some various unknowns... For the record, bike has not run right since i got it. Moved from an elevation of 1100ft above sea level to 238ft . When I got it, it had and has: -Full PC pipes and silencers -V3 Reeds -Chariot 2-1 Intake -Uni Clamp on air filter -After market head (not sure from who) -PWK 39mm single carb -160 Main/ 60 Slow Guy said it was bored .40 over with wiseco pistons and had 4 hours on it. I have no way of verifying that. Did a compression test, and i get around 110 after 4-5 kicks on a completely cold engine. I get up to 120 after almost 10 kicks on cold engine. That's all the info i think i can share until my next problem! Any help greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClayAiken Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Pistons and head look alright. Runs like shit prob cause of wiring and carbs arent tuned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave5.0 Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 How come u pulled the head? Just bored? Compression is a bout normal for a stocker I think. You've only got one carb, sounds a bit big for the motor but should be able to make it run ok. First thing I'd be doing is stripping that wiring harness and fixing all those crap connections. That start stop switch comes apart and can prob be fixed. Just a set of sliding contacts in there. Bike might be lean if it was tuned for that high elevation. The head is normal that's a coolhead. They don't have gaskets, just Orings. There should be a shit ton of info on those around here. Clean that carb really good. Tear it completely apart and hose it down with carb cleaner. Doit over a bowl or something to catch the cleaner. When u take a part off throw it in the bowl to soak. Then blow all the passages out real good with compressed air. I've never had to replace jets that were clogged, just clean them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirectIntelect Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 (edited) How come u pulled the head? Just bored? Compression is a bout normal for a stocker I think. You've only got one carb, sounds a bit big for the motor but should be able to make it run ok. First thing I'd be doing is stripping that wiring harness and fixing all those crap connections. That start stop switch comes apart and can prob be fixed. Just a set of sliding contacts in there. Bike might be lean if it was tuned for that high elevation. The head is normal that's a coolhead. They don't have gaskets, just Orings. There should be a shit ton of info on those around here. Clean that carb really good. Tear it completely apart and hose it down with carb cleaner. Doit over a bowl or something to catch the cleaner. When u take a part off throw it in the bowl to soak. Then blow all the passages out real good with compressed air. I've never had to replace jets that were clogged, just clean them out. Ok, great.. Didn't know cool heads didn't have gaskets. O, and i pulled the head because i just had to see for myself what was down in there! Edited September 23, 2012 by DirectIntelect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadarRacing Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Thats a normal coolhead , clean and replace the orings. Do not spray the rubber orings with any cleaner. Those pistons being that black look lean to me , if it has 120psi then just check it asap when you get the wiring fixed. Usually see whats called piston wash near the side/transfer ports. As far as wiring , if you want to just do away with the switch on the bars you can do a short drag type wiring harness and use a tether kill switch and if you want to keep the lights do the harness that keeps lights and use a toggle switch for the lights. Do a search and you will find it. You only need a couple wires to run it and those little extra plugs are the TORS plugs you can cut them off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirectIntelect Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Thats a normal coolhead , clean and replace the orings. Do not spray the rubber orings with any cleaner. Those pistons being that black look lean to me , if it has 120psi then just check it asap when you get the wiring fixed. Usually see whats called piston wash near the side/transfer ports. As far as wiring , if you want to just do away with the switch on the bars you can do a short drag type wiring harness and use a tether kill switch and if you want to keep the lights do the harness that keeps lights and use a toggle switch for the lights. Do a search and you will find it. You only need a couple wires to run it and those little extra plugs are the TORS plugs you can cut them off. Whats so odd is i swore up and down i was running rich based on how my plugs looked, and the hiccuping during WOT. Don't these look kinda rich? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike0chek Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 ya there pretty black, the carbs prob need some TLC, good idea to clean the air filter also, and even a leakdown on the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadarRacing Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 Yeah those plugs look rich as hell. Maybe its just using a sticky oil that makes yours black as hell. If it hickups and then cleans up it is probably rich. Search on here or look on atvdragracers in the 2 stroke section and ditch the switches , key , handlebar and all and use a tether switch. Thats what I would do. Yyou really only need about 2 feet of wiring to run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 You can also pull those small bolts out of the sides of the cylinders to drain them so you dont get near as much antifreez in the bottom end when you pull the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirectIntelect Posted September 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 You can also pull those small bolts out of the sides of the cylinders to drain them so you dont get near as much antifreez in the bottom end when you pull the head. Yea, im thinking to completely ditch the current wiring set up and go to something a little more reliable! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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