who cut your domes

[Coupelx]

We're both right so I don't see why you keep going?

Because you are not right. You got caught and are backpedaling to try and save face. You made a bullshit statement and refuse to admit it.

[okbeast]

I originally said domes aren't everything. This statement is true right?

 

I also said you can't swap in a set of different domes and notice an extra 10HP. I will say this is not completely correct. If you have a really bad set of domes then a good set will help you out.

[gotta_goatsfast]

Who claimed you could make 10 hp with domes on a stock motor?

 

 

Dome design is a critical part of any reliable high performance 2 stroke build. While domes aren't "everything" without a matching dome design the motor is "nothing".

[okbeast]

Who claimed you could make 10 hp with domes on a stock motor?

 

 

Dome design is a critical part of any reliable high performance 2 stroke build. While domes aren't "everything" without a matching dome design the motor is "nothing".

 

And what I originally meant was that ONLY the good dome design wouldn't yield you great results. It is part of the package. No bullshit statement anywhere.

[mopar1rules]

i'd love to see the "design differences" in all these diff domes. i have seen a TON of differt builders domes come through here and almost all of them were the same basic shape.

 

had a few that came through that were similar to GP designs i have seen in the 80's most just had differnt width squish bands. some were 8mm and went up to around 9 or 10 all the PD domes are in the 11-12mm wide range ( to damn wide in my opinion)

 

i'm playing with ways to stimulate turbulence and control hot spots...

 

its fun!

I agree that it seems pro-design domes have a really wide squish band. It makes for a higher MSV and require less ignition timing advance. I prefer an average band width and nothing really over 60% SAR. Pro-design has some that I thought I remember being around 70%-72% SAR. That's wide!

[gotta_goatsfast]

And what I originally meant was that ONLY the good dome design wouldn't yield you great results. It is part of the package. No bullshit statement anywhere.

 

 

...then we all agree and there is no arguement!

[gangstahic]

I agree that it seems pro-design domes have a really wide squish band. It makes for a higher MSV and require less ignition timing advance. I prefer an average band width and nothing really over 60% SAR. Pro-design has some that I thought I remember being around 70%-72% SAR. That's wide!

I wish i knew what all that means lol

[Coupelx]

I originally said domes aren't everything. This statement is true right?

 

I also said you can't swap in a set of different domes and notice an extra 10HP. I will say this is not completely correct. If you have a really bad set of domes then a good set will help you out.

In the context that you used it, you were dismissing the importance of a proper dome. As in saying a dome is a dome, when infact it much more than that. Its generalized statements like this that add to the confusion and contribute NOTHING.

 

You are the one stuck on the extra 10hp statement which was originally yours to begin with and I simply added to it INCLUDING providing an example.

[Oregon dunner]

Cam at Redline tweaked my PD domes on my ported cub by HJR and I have had no problems.

[okbeast]

In the context that you used it, you were dismissing the importance of a proper dome. As in saying a dome is a dome, when infact it much more than that. Its generalized statements like this that add to the confusion and contribute NOTHING.

 

You are the one stuck on the extra 10hp statement which was originally yours to begin with and I simply added to it INCLUDING providing an example.

 

I do see how it could be confusing. I do apologize for the completely irrelevant post and waste of internet space

[Redline Racing]

I talked with Werner after I saw this post. I was concerned the domes I had cut were causing damage to his mtr. After goin over how he checked his squish, his kicking psi, ign timing we went to carbs. He had bought an unknown set of 33pwk carbs . To make these carbs run he had to lean his jetting way to far down. He then bought a new set of 35 pwk carbs, which run standard jetting for a 4 mm cub. The new carbs according to him run way better.

 

So the main problem was probably his jacked up carbs. This is why I never recommend buying used carbs unless they are off a known good running bike.

 

My point is by reading his post it makes me look like I cut bad domes. Not disclosing the fact he bought carbs that didn't work and he leaned into the mtr with jetting. A dome with .050 squish with proper squish angle with a standard width band doesn't blow o-rings at 150 psi.

 

So people before you make a post that may be taken wrong way by many people ASK YOUR BUILDER!!!!! Tell all info....... What ALL CHANGES YOU HAVE MADE to bike in last few month.

 

I am not knocking Werner by any means just using him as an example ( sorry Werner ) . I could go on and on but I'm not windy . Lol

 

Sorry to vent but I see post like this on here all the time.

[Finch]

 

 

I am not knocking Werner by any means just using him as an example ( sorry Werner ) . I could go on and on but I'm not windy . Lol

 

 

 

Haha!

[Coupelx]

I do see how it could be confusing. I do apologize for the completely irrelevant post and waste of internet space

Thanks.

[94BANSHEE]

I have a chariot head with 22cc domes and orings that I never installed. If I get cut domes from a vendor for a 4mil can i still use the coolhead and orings?

[Redline Racing]

I have a chariot head with 22cc domes and orings that I never installed. If I get cut domes from a vendor for a 4mil can i still use the coolhead and orings?

 

 

Yes you can use your head shell and o-rings.