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Ok, many of you probably read my overheating thread.

 

Well unbolted NOSS head and almost had to pry it off. Bottom half is very, I mean very tight when trying to slip it back on over studs. I could remove some of the studs to get it on but that just doesn't seem the right way to do it. So I'm figuring it is warped. Question is do the cylinders also warp at the head to cylinder mating surface?

I don't have a mechanics straight edge and would play hell trying to find one here.

 

Next question, NOSS or Chariot? And why?

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Ok, many of you probably read my overheating thread.

 

Well unbolted NOSS head and almost had to pry it off. Bottom half is very, I mean very tight when trying to slip it back on over studs. I could remove some of the studs to get it on but that just doesn't seem the right way to do it. So I'm figuring it is warped. Question is do the cylinders also warp at the head to cylinder mating surface?

I don't have a mechanics straight edge and would play hell trying to find one here.

 

Next question, NOSS or Chariot? And why?

 

I think the function of each head is comperable. Could the fitment issue be with the location the jugs are bolted to the case at? There should be 2 locating bushings on each jug to align it to the case. If one is missing the jug could cause the misalignment fo the head. During assembly, I always set the head on the jugs as I torque the bolts for the cylinders. I woudl think the billet head would have to get pretty damn hot to warp it.

 

 

 

SP

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I think the function of each head is comperable. Could the fitment issue be with the location the jugs are bolted to the case at? There should be 2 locating bushings on each jug to align it to the case. If one is missing the jug could cause the misalignment fo the head. During assembly, I always set the head on the jugs as I torque the bolts for the cylinders. I woudl think the billet head would have to get pretty damn hot to warp it.

 

 

 

SP

 

Mine is a cub so the cylinders are one piece, not two separate ones like stock. I think I will try the NOSS bottom half on my stock motor for fitment and see how

that goes.

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I seriously doubt you will find an other head to fit better. I suspect you've either got a bent stud or the tollerances on your cub block have the bolt spread slightly off. I've seen this with CP cylinders. Don't take me wrong, they are by far the best aftermarket topend IMO but fitment can be rough with some of them

-Brandon

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I worked on it last night and I think a bent stud or two was the culprit, had some questionable studs and replaced them with some off my stock motor and the head went on much smoother. It is a pretty exact fitting head.

 

Thanks for the advice.

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