New Banshee H/O Lighting Stator Looking for R&D Tester

[toytech]

I also have one of the RM 200w stators for $50 on my bike, it even came with the regulator needed to run the extra watts. My bike runs hard with no issues, and I beat on it all day this past sunday.

 

mine had the reg too,also came with an adjustable timing plate too. with rm and re building stators now we have 2 other choices rather than just oem.

Edited August 22, 2012 by toytech

[thomas h.]

If you are looking for a San diego bike I'm going to convert mine.

I live in San Marcos close to baja desings. Have to banshees one stock and one hybrid.

[Glenyboy]

Pm him for a quicker answer

[fastforworddad]

Anything come from this? Testing results?

[So Cal Banshee]

Evan used my bike for a prototype for DC conversion kit he's going to offer. He also did a video that should be up on youtube soon. So far no issues what so ever. Used a rather large gelcell battery and wired it so battery could b removed and lights just run on stator. As far as others that have R&D stators, Evan has no feedback from them last time I talked to him. Only one person had issues, but really had nothing to do with his stators. Seems like great product at a great price, much lower then competition. Only time will truly tell if these stators hold up...

[So Cal Banshee]

Few more things to add, when stators get rewound the lighting side usually never fails unless there is a direct short, it's the ignition side that goes due to excess heat from lighting side, the wire insulation melts. the best way to avoid that is to run your lights all the time. stators will always make the same power with lights on or off. when lights are off that power gets converted to heat by regulator n stator, too much heat= melted insulation = short = failed stator.

Edited September 29, 2012 by So Cal Banshee

[fastforworddad]

Thanks for the info. I got in contact with Evan and I just have a couple of questions for him about my particular setup and what to expect.

 

Wayne

[#1JUANstunna]

Thanks for the info. I got in contact with Evan and I just have a couple of questions for him about my particular setup and what to expect.

 

Wayne

 

I Pm'd Evan on August 21st with no response. I had a couple questions too, like where can I get one of these since mine is a POS. Oh well I guess I'll buy else where.

[So Cal Banshee]

Evan has been very busy lately.. electrical engineer contractor.. If you want his products you got two choices.. ebay or his company - www.racetechelectric.com. or phone (760) 476-3514 - like $119 for dual 100watt A/C output or little more for 200watt ground floated DC with regulator.... The ones on ebay are made by him but not sold by him.. that is one reason why they are cheaper..but still his product (they buy bulk to resell)

 

Let him/company know you are HQ member and he might sell cheaper... He rarely answers emails on weekends..

[fastforworddad]

Few more things to add, when stators get rewound the lighting side usually never fails unless there is a direct short, it's the ignition side that goes due to excess heat from lighting side, the wire insulation melts. the best way to avoid that is to run your lights all the time. stators will always make the same power with lights on or off. when lights are off that power gets converted to heat by regulator n stator, too much heat= melted insulation = short = failed stator.

 

Does this hold true for the dc system with floated ground and battery?

[Glenyboy]

Does this hold true for the dc system with floated ground and battery?

 

I would imagine that the lighting side would be charging the battery non stop which would partially be like running lights as it's allowing current to circulate.

 

I have my unit from Evan fitted up in a dc circuit, but haven't got round to running it yet, things are a little hectic at home but I should hopefully get some time soon to test it out.

[fastforworddad]

I would imagine that the lighting side would be charging the battery non stop which would partially be like running lights as it's allowing current to circulate.

 

I have my unit from Evan fitted up in a dc circuit, but haven't got round to running it yet, things are a little hectic at home but I should hopefully get some time soon to test it out.

 

I kinda thought the regulator/rectifier's job in addition to turning ac into dc was to control charging of the battery depending on demand, correct me if I am wrong.

[Glenyboy]

Just got her started up with the dc conversion, on the voltmeter it stated off at about 13-13.5v then after a a few revs and mins moved up to around 14.14v.

 

Once running 110v Main lights off of that and an led rear it drops to 11.5v at idle.

 

With 4 hazard lights running at about 18v each and side lights at 15v each it runs at 12.5v, at this state it won't run the hazards and main probably as the battery hasn't seen a charge for a while.

 

From testing when i fitted up the lights they would run together so the battery could do with a charge.

Edited September 30, 2012 by Glenyboy

[sheerider1026]

Few more things to add, when stators get rewound the lighting side usually never fails unless there is a direct short, it's the ignition side that goes due to excess heat from lighting side, the wire insulation melts. the best way to avoid that is to run your lights all the time. stators will always make the same power with lights on or off. when lights are off that power gets converted to heat by regulator n stator, too much heat= melted insulation = short = failed stator.

 

This is so not true. I have kept my mouth shut until now. Here comes the cold hard truth. Yes, its usually the ignition side that gives trouble. No, its not because of heat build up from the lighting windings. The ignition and lighting have NO electrical connection to one another. The stator does not give a shit if you use the power its making or not, and doesnt create heat either way.. The stator does get hot, but do you know why? Only because its bolted to the side of the engine.

 

Stators fail because of one reason. They internally short themselves out. The wire used is coated with an enamel type coating. This insulates the wire . Thicker gauge wire ( like used on the lighting) will have a thicker enamel coating, making it less likely to short. The ignition side uses a very small, hair like wire. The enamel insulation is rather thin. Most aftermarket stators fail because they are wound with the cheapest wire on earth. As with ANYTHING the quality of materials used what makes something good or bad..

 

Discuss

[fastforworddad]

This is so not true. I have kept my mouth shut until now. Here comes the cold hard truth. Yes, its usually the ignition side that gives trouble. No, its not because of heat build up from the lighting windings. The ignition and lighting have NO electrical connection to one another. The stator does not give a shit if you use the power its making or not, and doesnt create heat either way.. The stator does get hot, but do you know why? Only because its bolted to the side of the engine.

 

Stators fail because of one reason. They internally short themselves out. The wire used is coated with an enamel type coating. This insulates the wire . Thicker gauge wire ( like used on the lighting) will have a thicker enamel coating, making it less likely to short. The ignition side uses a very small, hair like wire. The enamel insulation is rather thin. Most aftermarket stators fail because they are wound with the cheapest wire on earth. As with ANYTHING the quality of materials used what makes something good or bad..

 

Discuss

[/quote

 

So are you still rewinding them?