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So ive always ran a stock trans in my bike. It is my orignal trans from when i bought the bike when i was 18(im 22 now) and 4 years later im finnaly building the hp ive being spending all my money on. Great this is fantastic. Ive bought every part i could find, did every mod u can think of and now im forced to relize i cant launch my bike because i cannot get into second underload. Ive tryed removing the weight from my lockup and this didnt help. Windyjohn and i talked on the phone yesterday about my options and he said i could A. Remove my lockup or B. Get a pro mod tranny (the one with tbe dogs cut). Im a bit skeptical running the hp im at without a lockup, but im going to try it before i split my cases agian.

 

What do you guys think? I dont want a override. Theses trans arnt for me. I frequently downshift and i hear horror stories about how u shouldnt do this. I havent pulled my lockup off completely yet, i just took off some weight. I have a hydralic clutch so im thinking 6 hd springs should do the trick.

 

 

Also i want a natural down. Im sick of killing my bike becuase im fumbling around witb the gear shift. Plus i can never find it. Oddly enough i find it when underload from.1st to 2nd........ i was told to call redline racing. Maybe i will but i gotta count my pennies. How much does this typicaly cost?

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Correction - I said "Remove your lock-up AND get a Pro Mod type tranny." :lol:

 

Once your making the 95+ Hp you are.....shifting is a real issue. With a stock length swingarm your not going to be able to hook the bike hard enough to put all that power to the ground on a launch.

For the riding you do an override isn't an option. When you put a lock-up on a stock tranny it doesn't want to shift very well. (Most have to totally get off the gas, fully clutch it and then shift.)

 

So my suggestion is....Call Cameron at Redline and have him mod the tranny. (If you want a non-override neutral down 1-6 that's your call) then get a Mull Engineering shift pro bearing. Remove your lock-up and go with 6 heavy springs and see how it goes. You can always put the lock-up back on if you want later.

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Trust me, you don't need to worry about running a stock modded trans in a high hp bike. I run my transmissions in my 485 cheetah, 465 cub, a 612 twister, a 466 twister, and a couple stock cylinder 4mils, jrmarquez.702 is running one of my transmissions in his 400 cheetah and says it does good... You won't have any issues, and you can build it yourself....

 

side-cut the gears. (remove every other dog) (a local machine shop with a roatary table and an end-mill can do this for ya relatively cheap)

get a modded shift star

do the shift-pro kit, but re-use the stock heavy spring and chuck the softer shift-pro spring in the trash or sell it to someone on here if they want it.

do the shift-shaft mod (dremel out the shift-shaft so it can travel a little bit farther before hitting the alignment dowel.

get your shift drum machined for the second bearing on the end of the drum.

 

If you do these mods you won't have any trouble shifting. I have that same trans in my 10mil cub making 109hp and it shifts fine. backload it all you want, downshift, upshift, etc. Same transmission is in my 485 cheetah.

 

- Jared

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maybe i should of gave some info on my current trans, i have the following

 

drum w/ bearing mod

cascade easy shift mod

modded shift star

jeffs modded shift shaft

8 plate hinson clutch basket with pressure plate

f.a.s.t. clutch

lockup with soft springs

&

standard yamaha gear cluster.

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maybe i should of gave some info on my current trans, i have the following

 

drum w/ bearing mod

cascade easy shift mod

modded shift star

jeffs modded shift shaft

8 plate hinson clutch basket with pressure plate

f.a.s.t. clutch

lockup with soft springs

&

standard yamaha gear cluster.

 

 

You and wacko2000 must be related in another life... LOL! I don't know what to tell you guys... with what you have listed you should not have any trouble shifting even with the power you are making, unless you are abusing the thing. haha! Firehead dyno'd my old 612 twister at 152hp and I ran one of my transmissions in it and dune/drag raced that thing all summer long and it shifted great. If you want to be able to shift the thing without the clutch, you are going to need an override. Plain and simple. If you want that ability, then you will have to ride it like an override and take care of it. I would try and side-cut your gears and see if it helps ya at all, but if you are going to the trouble of splitting the cases, you might as well just throw an override in it if you want to shift it without the clutch.

 

I posted a couple videos of my 485 cheetah racing my 10mil cub out at KP, you can watch that video and see that both shift fine... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=155292

 

- Jared

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Trust me, you don't need to worry about running a stock modded trans in a high hp bike. I run my transmissions in my 485 cheetah, 465 cub, a 612 twister, a 466 twister, and a couple stock cylinder 4mils, jrmarquez.702 is running one of my transmissions in his 400 cheetah and says it does good... You won't have any issues, and you can build it yourself....

 

side-cut the gears. (remove every other dog) (a local machine shop with a roatary table and an end-mill can do this for ya relatively cheap)

get a modded shift star

do the shift-pro kit, but re-use the stock heavy spring and chuck the softer shift-pro spring in the trash or sell it to someone on here if they want it.

do the shift-shaft mod (dremel out the shift-shaft so it can travel a little bit farther before hitting the alignment dowel.

get your shift drum machined for the second bearing on the end of the drum.

 

If you do these mods you won't have any trouble shifting. I have that same trans in my 10mil cub making 109hp and it shifts fine. backload it all you want, downshift, upshift, etc. Same transmission is in my 485 cheetah.

 

- Jared

I'm so happy to read this right now.

I have the exact same problem as the OP. It would shift when fun riding but when ever I race someone I would miss shifts- it's pretty embarrassing really.

My shift style is like a track bike. I backload coming into turns and such...

I have every mod listed except the bearing on the drum mod.

I can't wait to get it back together and feel better now thanks.

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maybe i should of gave some info on my current trans, i have the following

 

drum w/ bearing mod

cascade easy shift mod

modded shift star

jeffs modded shift shaft

8 plate hinson clutch basket with pressure plate

f.a.s.t. clutch

lockup with soft springs

&

standard yamaha gear cluster.

 

I had all theese mods, and the stock trans modifided, the thing still did not shift good. I got an HJR 1-5 duneable overide, WoW this trans shifts like butter! full throttle no clutch. not hard to adjust to ride with this trans, just don't down shift to use engine braking.

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A lot of us NEED to down shift hard they way we ride.. I've been told by multiple members and multiple builders that a override, duneable or not will not work for my riding style. It sucks, but I'm just going to have to get accustomed to letting off the throttle when i shift from 2nd into 3rd

 

Dosnt that just suck!! I would love to be able to shift without using the clutch but just like you I have to down shift hard at times

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do the drum bearing mod for sure!

Would you trust Trinity for this? They have drums already modded with the bearing for sale outright on Egay.

Reason I ask is because I don't think I'll have time to ship it somewhere and get it back in time for my trip.

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