Moving the needle and leaking fuel

[JoeStar85]

Setup

FMF Fatty pipes, turbinecore 2's

4 mil Hot Rods Crank

MX hardcore port and polish

Chariot Head (not sure what cc the domes are, setup for 93 octance)

+4 timing

K&N with outerwear, Stock air box with no lid

Tors Delete Kit (Everything is disconnected and taped up)

Kevin at HJR put the motor together and did all tests, air leak/squish

27.5 pilot's/air screw 1.5 turns out, needle clips in stock postion, 330 mains

I synced the carbs using the tool from FAST (Reads 5 at idle and 19 just under half throttle)

32:1 Supertechniplate and 93 octane

I live and do some riding around 700ft in Erie,PA..... I will be doing most of my riding in Warren, Pa with elevations from 1,100-2,000 ft

 

The temperature around here has been 80-90 degrees

 

I did all the initial tuning in Erie (I had the pilot air screw at 1 turn out). It ran good until I started cruising at 1/4 throttle then went to slightly accelerate, It would bog until I gave it a lot of throttle. The plugs seemed to be pretty close to good (evenly Light Brown/mocha color). Then I took it to Warren,Pa the other day to do some riding. I had to choke it to start and kicked it about 8 or 9 times (Started first kick every time at lower elevations in Erie Pa) It seemed to run almost the same way it did in Erie, and I turned the air screw out another 1/2 turn to let some more air in hoping it would help compensate for the elevation a little bit. But still had the same problem bogging down trying to slightly accelerate from 1/4 throttle. So I figure I should move the needle clip from the stock postion up one notch to lean it out because I think it is letting too much fuel in? I pulled the choke out while riding and it just about shut off from too much fuel.

 

The biggest problem I had in Warren was if I proceeded to accelerate from a dead stop on an incline or go really slow up a hill the bike completely fell on its face and I had to rev it to the moon to get up the hill. If I was already cruising along at a good rate I did not notice this problem. After riding I pulled the plugs and they were running rich but not gunked up just a black color. I then discovered I was leaking some gas out of the right carb out of the bottom drain tube. I adjusted the floats in both carbs by eyesight while I was reassembling the bike recently after my total rebuild (I thought they both looked dead even but maybe I messed that up). I also cleaned the needle valves and seats using the toothpaste and cotton swab trick and ended up installing a new needle valve and seat in one carb, I also put a new gasket in one to replace a torn one ( but i can't remember which carb has the new one....shit). I read that the filter in the gas cap can get clogged and cause a vacuum that would push gas out of the drains in the carb, but the gas is only coming out of the right carb.

 

My last problem is soot on the spark plugs from the plug wires and cap (The tips of the spark plugs are stuck in the caps so when I install new plugs I have to unscrew the tip off the new plug, I tried getting them out with needle nose pliers but had no luck). Kevin said they are arching and the wires could be bad and that I could cut the ends of the wires and recconect them. My question is that the coil and wires only had about 3 hours of run time on them when this problem started. The previous owner installed the current one on the bike the night before I purchased it beause he said it wouldn't run. What do I need to look for to make sure this is the correct setup. Possibly could be a cheap one or not the correct part.

 

I have not done a plug chop test yet and It will be done soon. Just trying to work out the hiccups and hear some advice on any tunning tips or info. I also talked to a guy who seemed knowledgeable and owned a couple banshees used for drag racing and flat track. He said I should look into replacing the stock needle with an aftermaket on with different taper and length. Anyone have some input on that?

[Bkm2006]

start fresh! make sure you fuel is fresh!

1) clean carbs spray carb cleaner threw all the jets.

 

2- carb leaking could be due to float height or float sticking.

 

3- dont worry about setting the sync tool to a set number.. both carbs just need to read the same on idle , and 1/2 throttle. also make sure your carb slides seat all the way when you release throttle.

 

stock carbs can be a pain , just have to be patient and go back threw everything and make sure your float height and everything is correct.

 

as far as soot on your plug caps, I have no clue what that could be as i have never ran into this problem. i did have a misfire on one cylinder and i replaced my coil and that fixed it.

 

go 1 turn out on your p screw, needle on middle clip and go from there.

[JoeStar85]

I moved the clip from the 3rd position to the 4th and now it is running a little to lean (porcelen is dark and light shades of brown and the first ring on the threads has no color. I did this in Erie at around 700ft. My question is if I put my air box lid back on and possibly the snorkel also do you think it would richen it up enough to ride in Erie, then when i ride in warren at elevation between 1,100-2,000ft remove the air box lid to lean it out to compensate for the higher elevation? Does the airbox lid make that much of a difference? I'm just trying to figure out the best way to set it up so I don't have to tear everything apart when I change locations.

 

I measured and readjusted the floats and It help a little but still dripping a tiny bit of gas out of the right carb so I ordered a new needle valve and seat for it.

 

I would post pictures of the plug but I can never get the link to the picture to work

[Bkm2006]

do a plug chop and post pics.. cut off the threads so we can really see whats going on.