Koba Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 Cant get my shee to start unless i pull start it.. starts first kick after that. Im in northern il so pretty close to sea level.. i run a mix of gas 93 and 110. I also have fmf fattys and powercore silenecers and pods and my carbs. The carbs currently have 270 mains but have jets ranging from 220-340. Doesnt puff smoke except on start up. Idle is set 1.5 turns out. I run a 30:1 oil mix if that makes a difference. I pulled plugs after i rejetted with my fmf kit which is worthless and they where a little wet. Thinking i need to go lower on the jets. Just a though or maybe change my premix? Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubyyou Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 How is the compression ? Did you change the pilots out? I wouldn't think a few sizes different on the mains would affect starting the bike up. Was it starting 1st kick before the rejet or has it been doing this for a while? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motooutcastxxx Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 How long have you been running the 93 and 110 mix? Save yourself some cash and just run the 93, the 110 in that motor is absolutely unnecessary... Just sayin'. Are your carbs sync'd? Choke tube there? TORS or no TORS? What pilot jets are in it now? This would be the main circuit in the carb that would cause hard starting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfrjag Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 the idle circuit your talking about i beleive may be the air screw. if compression is good you may turn that in on both 1 turn to richen it up. also if your idle is set to high it can be difficult to start. the idle is on top of the tors unit unless you have removed them and installed idle screws. also be sure that your carbs are sinced up, this can make it difficult to start as well. as stated you dont need the mix of race gas unless you have 160+ compression or excessive timing advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koba Posted July 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 (edited) Well when i bought the bike it was pretty cold here still never rode it above 50 degrees. then it sat for a month and i started having problems.. when i bought it, it kicked within 5 trys as long as it didnt sit for more then a few days but usually first kick i was started. I was told im bored 30 over on the cylinders and i also have a boost pipe i forgot to mention that before.. carbs apprear to be synced but not sure its ny first time messing with a dual carb set up. Any tricks to help me make sure i got the synced correctly? And im not sure on the pilots i didnt tear my carbs completely down just tossed new mains in. Edited July 12, 2012 by Koba Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubyyou Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 If it were mine I would check compression....i have a hard time taking people's word on engine work. Ditch the boost bottle and go back to the factory crossover tube. Boost bottle is known to crack the boots and cause an air leak. Why not take the carbs off and clean the shit out of them also taking note as to what size mains, pilots, and needle clip position....that way you know what you are working with. Pilot could be dirty from sitting a lot. If you search on here there's a link on here for carb trouble shooting and tuning....very helpful. Pick up a Clymer's manual for the banshee...about $30 or so from a sponsor ....best money you can spend for your banshee! As already mentioned above....sync the carbs! Many how to's on here if you search. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubyyou Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 I'm going to bet you have a dirty pilot though if I was starting one kick before it sat a while....clean the carb real good..maybe throw in new pilots too. Cheap and easy. Then sync them. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koba Posted July 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 Well i was also told buy a guy at work to check my choke make sure thats adjusted right which im thinking its not i usef to have to crack the throttle to start my bike. Now i pretty much have to jave it half way open and no start... what about the aor screw i have it 1.5 turns out is that right? And to adjust my choke as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubyyou Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 1.5 turns out is a good starting point....should be close to get you started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomas h. Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 A carb synchronizer will help I think fast sells them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koba Posted July 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Messed with the carbs and i got it to start but inconsistently. When i did i had to keep on the throttle otherwise it died. I was 2 turns out on the idler screw and the air screw about 2.5 maybe a little less... changed my jets to 240's from 270 left the stock pilots. What am i missing to keep it idling turn in more or less? Or even drop one more jet i cant get it to start consistant enough to get the idle right... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomas h. Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Maybe check you tube for banshee tuning to give you a visual on how to do it. You might do a leak down test to see if something else is wrong. But I'd clean out the carbs and give new plugs. The 1.5 turns on the mix screw is not for min idle it is a blending of the gas between idle jets and needle setting. You said the banshee won't idle and you have to give it gass or she dies. But is the idle low? Figure out how to raise the idle so it will not die. 1 if you have tors caps the idle is in there 2 if you can just raise the idle at the throttle cable 3 if the tors is removed( do this soon if not ) then adjust the side screw in each carb. If there is none then adjust the cable going in the top Please use photobucket and copy the img code and paste in you thread so we can see what you see. Lots of google research will also help you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomas h. Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Sea level with your setup should be 300-320 mains stock 25 needles mid clip. No race gas just 93 unless you set it up with 160+ compression or timing +6 Colder weather might change the jetting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 My FMF pipes at 1000 ft above sea level hate stock needles and really comes alive with 27.5 pilots. Watch out!!!! With 240's in your bike you are going to burn it down! Gotta go bigger on those mains! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koba Posted July 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Well what i dont understand is with the 240 jets it starts but wouldnt the 270's unless i pull started it and im puffing a little smoke with the 240 but barely any Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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