wtf im getting worried

[badbanshee509]

ok so here the deal, my banshee idles fine and revs up in both pipes, however once i am riding and have it under power like full throttle it sounds like the right side stops working, but when go back to idle it comes back on and when im not really getting on it like just cruising, then they both sounds like its working as long as im not really punching it hard, wtf i need advice, i just had the heads tested and both are at 165, and also had the heads taken off to check rings and both rings are fine, im running stock coil and i also have a dyna fs ignition on it, im going crazy trying to find the problem, i changed plugs and it still dose the same thing, i am also running 110 gas

[do-work-son]

I had this happen twice

 

Once was the pick up coil was to far always and once was a dirty main.. I thought I had major issues till I switched carbs and it switched hole ..

[mailman]

Pull the float bowls and clean them out. It sounds like some small bit of crud is getting stuck in the main.

[badbanshee509]

i already had my carbs cleaned and tuned, so he said, but how do i do the cap test with my multi meter

[CarvedArt]

i already had my carbs cleaned and tuned, so he said, but how do i do the cap test with my multi meter

 

Go here: https://rapidshare.com/users/banshee/

Select: Banshee Docs

Download: Yamaha_Banshee_YFZ350_Service_Manual__Searchable_.zip

(Ctrl+F) Search for: Troubleshooting 1

there are some items to start testing.

 

To test the ohms across the plug caps simply remove the plug caps from the wires, they usually just unscrew. Then measure resistance by placing an ohmmeter probe on each end of the plug cap (metal that touches the sparkplug and metal that screws into the wire); it should be 5K. See other test procedures in the doc referenced above for a method to test the complete assembly first.

 

Another item to check is the polarity of the coil wires - Orange wire to "+" and Black wire to "-", many were backwards from the factory (note: you may need to go 1-size larger on the mains and adjust the air screws).

 

If you have T.O.R.S. still hooked-up you could disconnect it at the little brain box - it's mounted on the left-side of the upper frame rail kind of between the petcock and the bottom of the radiator. It has a white three-way connector just unplug it and start it up. If you no longer have T.O.R.S. it should definitely be disconnected.

Edited July 10, 2012 by CarvedArt

[EvilBanshee]

I agree with the plug caps. I the the EXACT same issue. New plug caps. Ran like a champ. Buy brand new caps from Yamaha

[badbanshee509]

ill try anything to get my bitch running good, ill try tomarrow and let yall know

[badbanshee509]

so i did the cap plud on the side that i feel fires good and the cap reads 4.45 ohms then i did the right side and it read open, no resistance at all. so im am amusing that that is the problem however like i said at idle, the bad side still fires some at idle and half throtle, would that be correct?

Edited July 11, 2012 by badbanshee509

[CarvedArt]

It could still possibly fire when the RPMs are up if there's a gap in the plug cap that will let a hot enough spark jump. With improper resistance you can experience erratic idle, high-rpm misfire, power loss at certain RPMs and abnormal combustion. I would get 2 new caps and go from there.

[badbanshee509]

thanks guys i will order some from ebay i see from the company ngk spark plug caps, dont know if it will make a difference with me using a dyna fs system.

[fastcar01]

Hey u dont have a dirty air filter do u? I run the kn 2-1 and if the outwear clogs it runs great until under a load.

[badbanshee509]

Hey u dont have a dirty air filter do u? I run the kn 2-1 and if the outwear clogs it runs great until under a load.

 

no outerwear on my filter. i just ordered the plug caps and when they com i will surely put them to the test, i hope that the problem will be solved then